It is 11:45 p.m. when I walk through the airport in Hong Kong has large, vivid strides. Reaches gate 27, I discovered with stupor (if, if, at least ac) that the flight will depart from Gate 5. You'll note the singular in the two preceding sentences. It is indeed one that I am heading to Seoul. Singapore celebrated Hari Raya on Wednesday, it's a weekend of 5 days available to me.
Korea ... if you had told me. Must say that after 4 years of traveling in neighboring countries of Singapore, here I am "obliged" to broaden my horizon. The choice of Seoul became a bit by default. Wishing an urban environment where travel alone did not reserve too many surprises, the choice is quickly reduced in Seoul or Shanghai. A phone call to Nicolas later it from Mongolia for the week, and Seoul is the right thing. It is Sunday afternoon, everything has a library corner and attack reading the Lonely Planet I finish reading in the smoking room of the airport of Hong Kong. 2 hours of call were therefore not too many.
I provides a brief program: temples, churches, temples, a palace, the border with North Korea, the football stadium, markets .. and temples. Contrary to everyone tells me, I feel there are enough to do 5 days in Seoul ..
=> Link to photo album: here
Wednesday, October 1
Program:
- United Service Organization (USO) tour border with North Korea.
- Jogyesa, and Tapgol Cheongdogyo
- Gyeonhungung and Gyengbokung
- Changgyeong and Jongnyo
It is 5 am when the flight landed in Seoul. It was well deserved rest 4h before attacking my first day tourist. Throughout my reading of Lonely Planet, I noticed that the last information from 2006 .. so it's a bit into the unknown that I'm coming. The guide indicates the possibility of building a subway line linking the airport to check me now.
After half an hour queuing at immigration (careful to take the starting sheet was left of immigration), I was off in the lobby of the airport. The counter 
information is more efficient. My first destination will be the subway station Samgakji to turn the booker for the border with North Korea to the USO. To get there, the hostess I propose the subway or bus. I chose the bus. This is the bus 6001 to the gate 12B. Once outside, I buy my ticket (8,000 won) to the ticket office and waiting in front of bus stop. It's 6 and the next bus is at 6:35 .. The air is fresh, just enough to motivate me to get my windbreaker Thales. The bus arrives and almost 1h40 journey needed to reach the bus station.
I find the exit 14 of the subway station and after 200m straight, the offices of the United 
Service Organization (USO) is on the other side of the street. Outside, barriers, armed soldiers, .. I'm in a country at war. Inside the building, just opened the door, a dozen American soldiers in uniforms slumped on couches ... well, it is the?
Yes. Left sofas, a small counter. The tour is unfortunately booked for the whole week. Better to book in advance. The hostess, however, gives me the phone number of another tour operator (Choon Eng-Express Tour. Tel: 02-2266 3350).
I resume the underground leadership in the district of Jonggak Isadong. Incidentally, I buy a card T-Money card, rechargeable, travel more easily by subway. Jonggak reached the temple Bosingak is closed, so I dragged my suitcase Jogyesa successively, and Tapgol Cheongdogyo. I reach
Jogyesa full religious ceremony. Jogyesa is the largest Buddhist temple in Seoul. Dozens of worshipers were kneeling on the carpet outside because the temple is full. Inside, 10 Buddha statues that represent the 10 judges who decide the way to heaven or hell, 49 days after the death of someone.
Tapgol park, or Park of the Pagoda, is named the pagoda that houses it. Built in 1471, the pagoda is home to a terrible ice protection. It is from this park's 
begins the march for independence against the Japanese was severely repressed. In return, the declaration of independence was read on 1 March 1919 in this same park.
Finally, Cheongdogyo is a red brick church in Baroque style.
It is now time to think about housing. After having spent 20 minutes to seek Beewon Guesthouse, and it is full for tonight, I put my suitcase Sae Rim Hotel. 50.000 Won or 40USD. Hard to find much cheaper in Seoul. The bedroom has a double bed, LCD cable, computer, internet, air conditioning, fan, private shower, water dispenser .. the room is not great but comfort is. I also take the couple's hospitality managers to book a tour to the DMZ (demilitarized zone) tomorrow morning. After a quick shower, I went back to the 
visit Insadong district of Gwanghwamun which is a part. The statue
of Admiral Yi Sun-Sin is under renovation, it starts well.
I can link with Gyeonhungung or I see a demonstration of Taekwondo.
I continue north to join Gyengbokung. The temple itself is also under renovation, but
can be accessed from the rear. I attended a handover of weapons between the teams guards. I then walk east until Changdeokung or participation in a turn is required. He is 14h. English is the last lap at 15.30 .. too late, it will be for another day. I finish with Changgyeong and Jongnyo. Not too many comments about all these temples. Or I'm not artistic sensibility 
required, or all of these temples are all alike. I returned to the hotel to take a nap.
It is 9:30 p.m. when I go to dinner in a small restaurant near the hotel. 4.000 won for Bim Bim Bam. I then take the metro to discover Itaewon, Lively by Lonely Planet (2006 ...). The main street is almost empty. Many military posts under the arcades. I take a small beer at Gecko's and I take the subway to the hotel. 2 changes and waiting 20 minutes each time and I'm in bed. Tomorrow's meeting at Lotte Hotel at 9:30 for the start of the tour DMZ.
Thursday, October 2
Program:
- Daoksugung
- Meong Catholic Cathedral
-Dong - Seoul Tower
- Village Namsangol
- Namdaem market
- Sodaemun prison
- Seolleung Park Royal Tombs
- Bongeunsa
- Building 63
Wake up at 7:30. Small quick coffee in the room, quick shower and I leave for the rendezvous. Tickets for the DMZ are difficult to obtain the last minute, this is not to miss this opportunity. The appointment is on the 6th floor of the Lotte Hotel. Having seen a Lotte World Hotel in Lonely Planet, is in the Jamsil area that I am. I'm already 10 minutes late. Arrives at the 6th floor, I find myself in the midst of beauty salons .. Call the tour operator. There is a second Lotte Hotel in City Hall .. it is too late to go there, the tour will leave without me. The tower is more complete until the end of the week.
back at the hotel and I asked the manager to find me another tourism organization. I found a place for Saturday morning. By cons I will not see the border village of 
Panmunjeom not accessible to tourists on weekends. The hostess speaks perfect English. The tour comes to fetch me at the hotel in addition, no misfires possible this time.
I continue my visit this time by tackling the areas of 
Myeong-dong and Namsan. Arriving at City Hall, Daoksugung resembles the temples seen the day before. It also houses the Museum of Contemporary Arts .
then I walk up the Meong-Dong Catholic Cathedral. The steeple of this red brick cathedral is also in 
renovation .. Inside the cathedral looks like the cathedrals of our house with the choir, stained glass, pews, .. A statue of Jesus is facing the city, a bit like Rio de Janeiro. . Another fun thing is the priest also post at the top of the long climb that leads to the cathedral in order to commend the faithful who go through this little ordeal.
I then take a taxi for the first time the stay to go to the Namsan cable car station. The cable cars (6.000 won the first leg, 10,000 won round trip) leads to the Seoul Tower (7,000 won). The walk is also possible. Having enough market these days, I choose the easy way. Towering to 479 meters above the
sea level, the tower offers a panoramic view to 360 degrees over the city. I then go back down the other side to take bus No. 2 to the Korean village of Namsangol. Swarms of schoolchildren visiting the village. This is a reconstruction of houses
traditional and furniture. I then take the metro to the market Namdaem. The general market Chatuchak Market in Bangkok, he has many stalls dedicated to clothes for women. Twenty minutes later I go back in metro Sodaemun prison.
arrived at the station Dongnimum I through Independence Park and am performing the sum of 1,500 won to enter the prison . Inside, a small marked trail following a progression from the execution of interrogations of prisoners, embellished term reconstructions of visual and audio. Nearly 
4.000 Opponents of Japanese rule there would be dead among the 40,000 people who were sent.
I then decided to return to Jamsil DMZ or adventure had proved fruitless earlier in the day. I first visited the park Seolleung in which lie the tombs of King Seongjong, his wife and son. Statues of soldiers and animals protect the tombs perched on large 
slope, all in the middle of a Park or many just Séoulites jog. This park is rather exotic and exchange of many temples.
After so much nature, I return to my temples. I go to Bongeunsa, north of the COEX Mall and Department Store Hitachi. Y going a little while trailing legs, I must confess honestly have been pleasantly surprised by this temple. Much more work than previous ones, with paintings on the doors ... 
Finally, I take the subway to near Noryangjin Yeouido to climb to the top of Building 63. The Building 63 provides 3 activities: the observatory, aquarium and cinema. For lack of time I'm gone qu'al'observatoire. I was not disappointed, however, the journey (60-story elevator) because night view of a highway from Seoul is magical. I'll spare you the exposure Hello Kitty Observatory. A small hamburger fastfood Lotte's building and I am back at the hotel after a day rather loaded.
Friday, October 3
Program:
- Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon
- Changdeokung
Asleep early enough before a replay of the match Liverpool-PSV Eindhoven, is at 7.30 I woke, the best place to start my longest trip: the fortress of Suwon (Hwaseong) south of Seoul. Accessible by subway, it was after almost 1 hour I get to Suwon Station. Not wishing to spend 20 minutes looking for the free bus, I take a taxi to the castle (5 minutes, 2,400 won). I arrive at Paldalmun , small circular fortress at the center of a square. I go to the left of the fortress and perceive the early steps. At right, a tourist information center that will be useful later. 
Currently, there are dozens of steps ahead of me. After 10-minute walk along the fortress walls, we arrive at the ticket office (1,000 won). Then it's 1:30-2am walking to tour almost complete fortress, tower interspersed with small temples and guard posts. The fortress was built around 1794-96 and is the party best preserved fortification from Seoul. Quite nice. Once the turn buckle, I return to the Visitor Information Centre to write to me that the name in Korean Korean Folk Village. I recommend taking a taxi, too dear .. (20,000 won ...). I avoid
tell him that I can allow this much extra and accept, at his insistence, he took me to the bus station. He waits 25 minutes with me what bus 37. Every 5 minutes I invited him to return to his office but he refuses. During this time, I weigh the pros and cons. I fear that the 2hr bus return strengthens the possible disappointment that this reconstruction of traditional village. I finally decided not to go. 
I return the cab to the station in Suwon. My last goal of the day is Changdeokung a proximité de mon quartier. Il est 15h, 30 minutes à attendre avant le départ du tour anglophone. Une quarantaine de caucasiens arrivent, le tour commence. Le temple est globalement bien. Alternance de temples, d’étangs et de jardin secret. La visite dure près d’1h30. Je retourne à l’hôtel. Guillaume, ancien stagiaire Thales a Singapour, et habitant désormais près de Seoul, devait me rejoindre mais ne finalement pas ce soir. Plutôt que de rester seul a l’hôtel, je décide de sortir dans le quartier de Hongik. Le quartier est vivant, très vivant. De nombreux bars, restaurants, boites de nuit. J’y rencontre un italien et quelques coréens with whom we spend a great evening.
Saturday, October 4
Program:
- the DMZ (demilitarized zone bordering North Korea)
- Guksadang
Laying at 4am, waking up at 7am was a bit difficult. Barely time to finish my coffee that comes to pick me up already for the ride. First in a car, we reach the bus parking near the Hotel Ibis. The tour starts.
We learn a lot of details about Seoul and Korea. Korea has 50 million inhabitants. 27.000 U.S. soldiers are stationed in Seoul. In North Korea, there are 22 million people, but 1 million soldiers. During this time, I look outside. All the coast is surrounded by a wall of barbed wire and guard posts every 100 meters, some empty, others with a guard. The border with North Korea's is 57 km from Seoul. Above the highway, are 10 large white blocks explosive charges. In case of invasion, the South Korean government would blow up the blocks on the road. At a rate of 3-4 minutes lost by the North Koreans to clear the debris of a block, it would be 30-40 minutes for the army won in Seoul mobilize. In woods and vacant lots around the highway, it is 700.000 mines that remain despite an earlier clearance of mines from 300 to 400.000.
Approaching the border, the bus must weave between obstacles (barriers and tire-piercing). The photos are prohibited. With no time to visit the Korean prisons now, I resigned myself to leave my camera in my bag. The DMZ is 4km wide (2km either side of the border) to 248km long. After passport control, the bus took us first to an observation post where we saw the Freedom Bridge (Freedom Bridge). Before a panel "no shoot", and 50 meters from a guard post, there are dozens of tourists who photograph. And so I did not pray. The bus then takes us to the fourth tunnel invasion, the last tunnel to be
discovered in 1974. It would probably still a dozen. To find these four tunnels, the South Korean government as a result has information architects who worked on these sites, flooded the floor to find the exact location of the tunnel. Once the tunnel is discovered, North Korea has quickly spread of coal on the walls to pretend that this tunnel was a coal mine tunnel and not an invasion. It seems that this explanation was not considered sufficiently convincing South Korea. The photos are also prohibited inside the tunnel. The helmet is proving vital for anyone over 1, 70m. Buttressed throughout, I had to hit the helmet 15 times in the tunnel rather low ceiling. Note that North Korea no income from this tourism activity. Then the bus takes us to another observation post with a view
on border villages North and South Korea. The two countries have engaged in a competition for the village which will flag the highest. North Korea had the last word. Thus, two flags waving in the middle of a valley. Note that this valley is a very strong scientific interest because the men are absent since 1953. Peak of the local military stupidity, the photos are banned from the observation post, but allowed five meters away. We must therefore raise their arms to the sky and aim at the blind trying to photograph the flags. I still do not understand what can it change photographs from the post ... 
Finally, the bus takes us to the station Dongsan , railroad linking Seoul to Pyongyang. For now dedicated solely to trade in goods since 2007, it should open in the future to transport passengers.
The trip ends with a visit to a factory of precious stones and a store specializing in ginseng. In the entrance, I read that Francois Mitterrand had lived 7 months longer having drunk Korean Ginseng.
The bus takes us back to City Hall. I take the subway: the direction Guksadang I failed to visit when I pass near Seodaemun Prison. 10-15 minutes walk from the station Dongnimun are needed to reach the foot of this beautiful place. The temple is located a little further up the mountain. over again, the rocks which, according to Lonely Planet,
look like less of their tunic covered .. ca se discute. the evening, I found William. After a Korean barbecue, we ecumons few bars before returning to the M2 visited the previous day. The electro-house scene in Seoul is really good.
Sunday, October 5
The plane is 15.30. I leave the hotel around 11:30. The metro, despite two changes, will prove much faster than the bus go. I'll spare you the extra 2 hours waiting at the stop in Hong Kong due to typhoon, common in Hong Kong ..
=> Link to photo album: here
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