Sunday, May 18, 2008

Caramel Apple Station For Wedding

Turtle Island - Sepilok

A trip to Sabah AC prepares it seems, I experienced backpackers travel more than that. After climbing Mount Kinabalu, I had already promised to return to concentrate this time on this aspect of wildlife second region of Malaysian Borneo. The main purpose of the trip is the island of Selingan, called Turtle Island, located one hour by boat from Sandakan, in the east of the island. The problems begin when the site appears to be limited to 60 admissions and that its management is controlled by Tour Operators. To witness the spectacle of nature, so it's five days before the start that I am performing U.S. $ 526 (double occupancy) from Borneo Adventure for a day and a half of tourism (mass) and between Selingan to Sepilok see also the rehabilitation center orangutans.

Unlike the region of Sarawak, Sabah tourism is much more organized. Everything is more or less controlled by the Tour Operators, but this does not treasure it is to explore such as Mount Kinabalu, the site of Sipadan elected as the best dive site in the world, and any wildlife that are found almost nowhere else. It is on this fauna that three-day weekend focused.


Otherwise you can directly access the photo album -> here


Saturday, May 17, 2008

- Flight Johor Bahru - Kota Kinabalu
- Bus Kota Kinabalu - Sandakan
- Visit Sandakan

Sunrise 3am and 3:40 departure from the house. The taxi arranged by Benson (Singaporean shipping company) takes us in Malaysia. The Singaporean side of the border, Customs added the fingerprinting program, causing a small traffic jam of 20 minutes. Then the side of Malaysia, I am asked to get off the taxi and it takes me to an office .. a little tanned, I am taken to the Malaysian terrorist escaped from Singapore? I will not answer. After making me wait 10 minutes I am my passport stamps and one starts to Senai Airport, Johor Bahru airport. The fact is that despite these events, here we are at 5:15 at the airport while the plane leaves at 7:25. I thank Thibaud de internally advised me to advance the departure taxi, so we can fully appreciate our waiting at the airport. We find, however, Gregory and Timothy in Singapore who spend the weekend in Bako National Park (Kuching, Sarawak) that I could show you my picture above. A weekend very nature, therefore, for the French in Singapore. Breakfast room to the cafeteria the airport before each "couple" does not begin from his side. Returning to Johor Bahru at the same time, the appointment was made Monday at 23.20 to share a taxi.

It seems that statistically, an Air Asia flight on three partners behind. Ours leaves on time, arriving even 25 minutes early to Kota Kinabalu (Tanjung Aru Airport). It was 9:25 when we take a taxi at the counter official airport. 30 ringgit to go to the bus station Innaman in the north of the city, from where the bus to Sandakan. 35 minutes later and here we are at the bus station, between us, more like a disused station Poland's 60 years that a new bus station. It is 10am, departure time of buses to Sandakan. The next is at 14h .. Apart from the Sabah Museum, situated in the extreme south of the city, so far from the bus station, nothing makes us want to stay in Kota Kinabalu a few hours. I thought before going to the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve, but the timing was too short, keep all this activity for the last day. We're taking our tickets (33 Ringgits) Counter 8: Tung Ma Express and embark on the bus leaving immediately. We spend during the trip at the entrance of Kinabalu National Park. A tear falls from my cheek at the sight the restaurant and the front door we triumphantly crowd before climbing Mount Kinabalu. After 4h, the bus finally stops: lunch in a food court where you can exchange the ticket for bus cons a drink, the food still remains the responsibility of the passenger. After this 10-minute break, the bus starts again and we are distributing free bottles of water. Finally, note that the 6 hour trip are complemented by the dissemination of films rather recent (10,000 DC, Dragon Wars, Iron Man, ..) that would come to wonder how they did it so quickly to acquire rights dissemination.

Arrived 16h at the bus station in Sandakan, we take a taxi to travel 4-5 km to remaining downtown Sandakan. The center looks more like a station at Melun Sud resort. The streets are dark, blackened buildings, .. a transit town who wants to be faithful to its nature and does not retain tourists for too long. Fortunately, amid all this, there is the May Fair Hotel . Frankly, the hotel does not look outside, with its small entrance at the corner next to a textile shop. The interior is not exceptional either, but the rooms are clean and rather spacious, with air conditioning, LCD TV, DVD player, a bathroom, .. all for 50 ringgit per night. It is almost given. The small downside is that suddenly, thousands of backpackers go there, so it is best to book him at least 1-2 days in advance.

Once showered, we head into the hills above the city in search of a view over the bay of Sandakan. Our first destination was the Agnes Keith House, a restored house writer deported during the war. The theme of the Second World War is indeed a strong presence in the city. Old capital of Sabah, Sandakan was bombed by the allies to expel the Japanese. Since 1945, the capital Kota Kinabalu is now. As always, many people, especially Australian, were subjected to forced labor and enforced by them. To get there, take Lebuh Empat, and take steps (Tangga Seribu) concrete to the left of the Courts of Justice. The first 10 meters of the stairs are destroyed, presumably to preserve the archaeological remains of the 2nd GM, which requires a little balancing act.


Continuing the path, then we arrive at Residential Drive overlooking the Agnes Keith House. We arrived at 16:45 but, a priori, employees, conservative, had already anticipated the closing day of 17h. So we will not see outside, and a peek inside through the windows of the doors, which allows me to say that the house does not break three legs to a duck. However, if for reasons beyond your control, you have time to lose in Sandakan, I can only advise you visit the house to be a must-do tourist town.


Indeed, below the house, should be Comment Pavilion built by the Rotary Club. Lonely Planet announcing "fine views, already imagining a huge white tower, I thought I already have the photo tour brochures of Sandakan. In fact, Comment Pavilion resembles a bus station, and the sight gives ca! (I must not have the same criteria as the Lonely Planet)

With these two visits to the Mosque is the city that we are headed. Does not even deserve a picture, we start our walk along the seafront . It is far from the Croisette , but it remains the coolest by far the Sandakan that I have ever seen. Having had the chance to meet the group of Sandakan Bikers, one stops for a drink. The next destination was to be the Puu Jih Shih Temple, located 4km west of the city. I must confess that, before poverty scenic tours of the afternoon, I decided to skip this part of the program to skip dinner. We dine in an Indian restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet, the Restoran Zakaria III, whose variety of roti prata is indeed laudable. I am a chicken murtabak not bad but different those of my Indian friend from Newton Circus. 10 MYR for two courses and a drink ... Cheap. We then return to the guesthouse to watch it on TV. Besides the cable channels, the Guesthouse has also an impressive collection of VCD (over 1,000 at first glance) and the possibility to borrow free of charge (maximum 5 days). Broken Arrow and the Hulk in hand, watching TV is that we end our experience Sandakanaise.


Sunday, May 18

- Sim Sim
Water Village - Boat Sandakan-Turtle Island
- Ponte eggs and releasing hatchlings

Departure the tour operator is at Sandakan Hotel, 3 minutes walk from the May Fair Hotel. The appointment is for 9:45, we board a bus or a dozen other Caucasian face. Strangely, Vanessa and I are isolated from this group with two Chilean physicians and benefit from our own guide, Junior. I wonder if we are the ones who are doing the most "entuber" but apparently not. We managed to find two seats from Borneo Adventure remained cheaper than almost all other web sites we visited, and which offered a real website for secure payment and not sending bank details by email as Other Tour Operators have been asking.

After a short bus ride, we arrive already Sim Sim Water Village. Halved (Part Discomfort with wooden bridges with China and cement bridges), the village is a succession of houses on stilts above a heap of rubbish. Lack of education of people who pollute the sea, but 40% of garbage from other villages were also brought by the current. We cross the Chinese side to lobby the company Seagull Sea Transport . Arrived on a wooden pier (jetty), we took two of their boats.


Accompanied by both Chilean and Junior, we got into the speed boat equipped with two engines of 85 horsepower. After 45 minutes by boat, we arrive at the island already Selingan (Turtle Islands ).

Park Turtle Island is actually comprised of three islands: 2 of them are closed to tourists and are used only for conservation purposes, only one, Selingan, showcases the preservation turtles. The three islands form a triangle with the sea surface is also protected, which makes fishing prohibited. Water is turquoise, white sand, I feel that this island will please me. Just arrived, we headed to the reception that gives us the keys to the rooms cabins (4 rooms per cabin in advance). It is 11:30, lunch is served at 12:30 in the only restaurant on the island. This restaurant is strangely managed by Crystal Quest, a Tour Operator.



Near the restaurant, an enclosure where fifty rolls of wire. A dead turtle near one of these rollers do not leave any doubt, this is where the rangers enterent turtle eggs to protect them from predators and thus increase the chances of survival of hatchlings, at least until they are released into the sea


ride on the beach before joining the group (Attention David Hasselhoff will not be there all the time). The buffet, as well as the cottage, are included in the package. Only beverages are at our expense (2 Ringgit water bottle and 3 Ringgit Sprite, AC should go).

The afternoon is free. During the tour of the island, we come face to face with a Malaysian armed with a submachine gun. We remember when we had Junior explained the presence of a small force on the island because of its proximity to the Philippines, and probably also to protect the turtle eggs that find a buyer on Asian markets for aphrodisiac that gives them character. Around the island is in 10 minutes top chrono, the island being only 8 hectares.



The northern tip of the island (Coral Low Tide ) is ugly in that all corals are dead. The southern end of the island, or that it happens, is the most beautiful, but swimming is strongly discouraged due to the power of ocean currents. It is therefore the only swimming area 100 meters long that all the small group meets. The sun beats down. Everything seems to meet a good nap on the sand .. well no. For the small problem in all this, what are the sand flies. These little sand flies that dance around in ten have you as diet blood. Unprotected, it is with dozens of white spots on the body that is wake. To protect yourself, you must: be or Singaporean , or prepare a lotion to spread over the body. A preparation that appeared to be proven: baby oil, Dettol and lemongrass. Do not, it's in the water that I spent my afternoon. At 16:30, the sun wane. So the room we went back to take a nap for the restless night we were going through.

the restaurant at 18.30, the guide briefs us on the evening. Expected in or near the restaurant that we call the rangers to attend the laying of a turtle. Nobody goes to the room, nobody on the beach. As always with this kind of animal travel, we do promises not see turtles tonight. Before 1996, it seemed guaranteed to see turtles every night. Since 1996, some years have seen nights without turtles (between 3 and 17 nights per year). The day , 5 turtles had laid 190 eggs, which is low. It also meets for 10 Ringgit Camera license that gives us the right to capture that moment. It reminds us of the rules: no video and no flash. For now, we climb the second floor to watch a short documentary on turtles. We learn that:
- Turtles lay per season from 8 to 14 months. Each turtle lays a total of approximately 1500 eggs in a season. For each egg, it is usually between 40 and 190 eggs per turtle.
- After the nesting season, turtles are resting 2-3 years before trying again.
- For there to egg, there must have been fertilized for one or more males. The female turtle has 4 rooms sperm filled, producing eggs. That's why the female is larger than the male.
- The brains of turtles appear surrounded by a magnetic membrane that would return to the place of their birth after 15-20 years, age of sexual maturity.
- Eggs Turtles are 50-60 days to hatch. 2 hours after oviposition the embryo is already beginning to form, so avoid handling them after the risk of killing or irreversible sequelae.
- The sex of the turtle is determined by the temperature of the sand in which the egg rests in its first 24 hours. A sand whose temperature is above 24 degrees will give birth to a female while the male is born with temperatures below 24 degrees.
- A Selingan, three species of turtles lay their eggs. The two main species are the green turtles (green turtles) and Hawksbill.

After the video, we take a quick tour of the museum. Information on turtles, skeletons and embryos are also visible. Then it's time for dinner. Very good buffet with fish and an omelet to die for. By cooler outside, we sit on the benches until the call rangers. The day before, the first turtle had arrived on the island at 21:30 and had started to lay at 22:30. We do indeed see the turtle at the time of laying order not to scare and prevent it from laying its eggs. It takes about 30 minutes to dig a hole which is equivalent to its height. So we wait, anxiously waiting and praying that this is not a night without turtles. To add to this slight stress, we also learn that we are part of the second group to be called to see spawning. The draw is conducted by rangers sheltered from observation. I therefore doubt the inside of the impartiality and integrity of this lucky draw. He is 21h when the walkie-talkie rangers sounds. The first group went to attend the egg while the second group expects sitting like idiots. 10 minutes later, Vanessa and I perceive a slight movement about fifteen yards away. Scratching in the sand later and jumped from the bench ... a turtle begins to violently remove the sand using its fins. Everyone is silent, listening carefully scraping the sand and seeing stealth jets of sand that were emerging in the penumbra. For several minutes, everyone was standing, listening in silence .. Then we learned that turtles do not understand, so people went back to talk. In the middle group, the guides were playing the Playstation Portable, rewarding us "let's fight" somewhat discordant in the context of childbirth. At least thirty minutes pass. I stimulus check our guide in making him more or less understand that if you miss the turtle, so he will die in agony.

10 minutes later, the walkie-talkie sounded, it was the green light. It goes naturally to the turtle that is 10 yards away. "No, not the one." We share 100 meters far right on the beach. Near the wooden bridge, there is a store that is already at the spot. At his feet, a turtle is stuck in the sand. Under the turtle, a hole lit by a torch or two eggs are lying now. We thus arrive at the beginning of spawning. The rhythm about one egg every 5 seconds, will attend the laying of 68 eggs. It's dark, the light illuminates only the hole in the turtle, we see the shape of the turtle on the sand but without a tripod, it can hardly take sharp pictures. So on the hindquarters (lit, as I recall) of the turtle that we focus our attention. The store collects the eggs progressively and groups on the sand while the turtle continues to lay eggs. A spawning times over, store it spans the turtle to reference it. He measure length, width and clip him an identifier metallic fin right if she has none. Our turtle is 89 cm long by 81 cm wide .. beautiful baby. Once measurements, guide and store still gives us 5-6 minutes to take pictures. We shall then all around the turtle. The problem is that the store really does not illuminate the turtle with his torch, he has just nothing to do. I remember we did not have the right to use the flash. Fortunately, some SLR cameras illuminate the scene just before shooting. It must therefore try to take his picture at the same time as another tourist armed with his SLR. The eye of the turtle gets wet, giving the impression that the turtle cry, what makes this moment even more beautiful to see .. no I'm not a sadist! During this time, the turtle covers the hole, not knowing that there is no more eggs.





Then at the insistence of the guide, we let the tortoise and head to the paddock spotted earlier in the afternoon. The ranger digs a hole and buried all the turtle eggs. It covers the hole in soft sand to facilitate the recovery of turtles. Our scope is number 895.


Finally, The program ends with the dropping of dozens of mini-baby turtles to the sea turtles Unlike adults, babies turtles are attracted to light. The guide, feet in water and a torch in hand, illuminates the sand to attract them to the sea show is touching, but the target is in motion and brightness still not at the rendezvous, it is even more difficult to take sharp pictures. Aware of how clumsy some turtles jump into the water while others return back attracted by light cameras. One thinks attend the laying of other turtles, this is not the case so as not to disturb any turtles from laying eggs. The reason is understandable but the natural reflex is to say that price or you pay ...:) It will not happen. Back near the restaurant, we realize account that the turtle always saw earlier digs. It seems she is on her third hole, probably unimpressed by the two holes drilled previously. The group went to bed. Vanessa and I are 10 minutes, about ten feet, listening to the scraping on the sand while still trying to take pictures in night mode, hoping see the head and fins Photo. The turtle has dug too deep, it will not happen. We're going to bed, still happy to have attended the laying of a turtle, which is never guaranteed. We teach the next day that only 4 turtles laid eggs that night for a total of just over 200 eggs.


Monday, May 19

- Boat Turtle Island - Sandakan
- Sepilok, Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
- Flight Sandkan - Kota Kinabalu
- Loh Kawi Wildlife Reserve


It's 6 am when the phone alarm sounds. It is 6:01 when the guide banging at the door shouting "morning, morning, the appointment being taken outside the restaurant at 6:30. Leaving the cottage, you come face to face with a turtle limped into the branches. The day is completely lifted, excellent brightness, this one will take for others ... Twenty pictures later and we join the group. No time for breakfast to avoid swallowing the boat .. not stupid. So we take the speed boat to remake the 45 minutes separating us from Sandakan. Along the way, two turtles frolic on the surface .. it's almost Christmas so one has lucky today. Remaining distance, it is difficult to film the scene. After 10 minutes we will start again. Back on the boardwalk of the Water Village Sim Sim, we sit at the tables for breakfast. Buffet with toast, sausages, beans, eggs, orange juice, coffee, ..

Departure by bus at 8:15 for the 45-minute drive that separates us from where the Sepilok rehabilitation center for orangutans to about 25km from Sandakan. Along the way, one of two guides we briefs on orangutans and the center itself. Apart from zoos, orangutans do not live only between Indonesia and Malaysia, more precisely Sumatra and Borneo. In Sumatra, orangutans are light orange and much more like humans. In Borneo, orangutans are dark orange and the head is much flatter than their Indonesian counterparts. Having already been seen in Sumatra, the loop will soon be closed. At Sepilok, about 45 of the 300 orangutans participate in the rehabilitation program. The park has 3600 acres, which provides 4 square kilometers for each orangutan. Living alone is the minimum area they give themselves themselves, the population does not vary greatly. Some orangutans are asleep and released at the Tabin Wildlife Reserve, also in eastern Sabah. The park operates on 4 programs:
- quarantine: the baby orangutans to all necessary examinations
- the inner child care (nursery indoor): to make their muscles work
- daycare external (outdoor nursery) to teach them find their own food.
- Autonomy in the jungle (free roaming Food Programme): orangutans are fed only twice a day and are doing the rest of the time.

Quarantine is now closed to the public. It is therefore possible to see baby orangutans in nappies. Guide reminds us that the orangutan sharing 96.4% of genes with humans. Diseases that we are spread very easily to babies, which explains why it has no right to approach them. The two programs are not accessible either because it is crucial for them to start learning to do without the man and return to a state of semi-liberty or completely wild THE STATE. The orangutans are gradually brought to the heart of the jungle. Some return to sleep in the cage, others leave in the wild. Rangers distribute food 2 times a day: 10am 15h. It is not the guarantee of not noticing. Victory for Rangers would be no more orangutan come and look for food from them, which is diametrically opposed to what people want tourists in search of photos.

Just arrived at the center, we are projecting a movie directed by an English journalist. The center is indeed funded by the Malaysian government and an association English (UK appeal). An English has in fact we launch an appeal for donations .. mobilize you .. Then come the movie. I must admit that the show is well established. On the giant screen, images of a baby orangutan detained illegally by villagers and handed over to the center, until the release of a large male, sequences alternate laughter and emotion ... Tourists are convinced, must sponsor a baby orangutan! Sponsor costs 150 ringgit per year, which entitles the receipt of two pictures per year as well as regular updates on the progress of his protégé (I always talk about the orangutan). In short, let us return to our sheep, after paying the camera allowed 10 Ringgit towards the platform. After 5 minutes of walking on a wooden bridge, here we are. No problems mud and leeches so .. Even before the rangers arrived, the monkeys are already at. Macaques, which pervade first for lunch, then what are the orangutans who come swinging on ropes. We'll see orangutans in total 8-10 and a little more than monkeys. The rangers give them bananas and sugar cane. Note that heat is to die on the platform and there is very little shade, especially that there are nearly 100 tourists who watch the show together with you. 4 to 7 times stronger than humans, and have arms from 1.5 to 2m long, attention personal affairs if the orangutans are not only on the platform located 10 meters from the tourists.

It is now 11am and we had a flight at 13:10 at the airport in Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu and go and have a good half day before returning to Singapore. The guide takes us into a van while the bus resumed its journey to Sandakan for lunch and a tour of the city (not that it bothered me not to miss). 13km away, 10 minutes, and we are at the airport Sandkan.

I take our time free to call the information center of the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve. After several unsuccessful attempts, particularly in Sumatra, I am indeed still inclined to see these mythical flowers more closely. Close to Kota Kinabalu, they would be possible to see the Rafflesia or reserve or the hot springs of Poring (Poring hotsprings), a few kilometers from the Kinabalu National Park. These flowers live only a few days, it is very difficult to predict to see. The center is closed. Tambunan call the resort for information. No chance, a rafflesia is underway but it will only open in 5 days. Too bad, he'll have to find another occupation, this occupation will be the zoo Kota Kinabalu The third goal of the weekend is the big nose monkey Probiscis said Monkey.

arrived at the airport in Kota Kinabalu, we take a taxi from the counter to Loh Kawi (40 Rinngit for about 30 minutes). Called Zoological Garden by Lonely Planet, the zoo is now called Loh Kawi Wildlife. There is no public transportation from there. We give appointment to our taxi at 17:30, closing time at the zoo. The entrance is at 20 ringgit per person.




The zoo is not too bad, among the rhinos, elephants, ostriches, bears, gibbons, toucans, reptiles, we will effectively Probiscis Monkeys and orangutans including a baby really cute. It is 3:30 p.m. when we finish the tour. Posed to the only cafe at the zoo, we recall the taxi to move back to Kota Kinabalu.








45 ringgit to go to Esplanade Waterfront Kota Kinabalu, very nice beach where we had been following the ascent of Mount Kinabalu. After an hour of shopping in the adjacent shopping centers, we also return to the same Italian restaurant to end three days of local food. 75 MYR for 2 courses, 2 drinks and 2 desserts. The sunset to 6:15 p.m.-30 is still as beautiful. It is now time to return to airport. The first two taxis offer 20 ringgit to go to the airport, is the market price they tell us. Principle, and because we had time to lose, it's finally a third taxi offering 15 ringgit to go to Terminal 2 from where the Air Asia flight. Finally it is possible to negotiate in this country! It was temps car à par un verre à l’aéroport, ce sera la dernière dépense en Malaisie, n’ayant pas de taxe d’aéroport à payer. Malgré 15 minutes de retard au décollage, nous arrivons à 23h20 à Johor Bahru. Nous partageons le taxi du retour avec Gregory et Timothée, 180 Ringgit pour passer par Tuas checkpoint (160 au comptoir et 20 au chauffeur à l’arrivée).


Dépenses pour 2 personnes

- Trajet Singapour – Aéroport Johor Bahru en taxi : S$70
- Vol Air Asia Johor Bahru – Kota Kinabalu : 1,852,000 MYR (cher, billets en période de vacances achetés deux semaines avant le départ)
- avec Borneo Island Packages Adventure Turtles: 526 USD
- KK Aéroport Taxi - Inaman bus station: 30 MYR (40min-1h)
- Bus Kota Kinabalu - Sandakan (Tung Ma Express): 66 MYR (6h)
- Taxi Sandakan bus station, a May Fair Hotel: 50-10 USD
- a Nuit au May Fair Hotel: 50 MYR
- Vol Air Asia Sandakan - Kota Kinabalu: 232 MYR
- Entrées zoo de Loh Us: 40 MYR
- Johor Bahru Taxi Aéroport - Singapour: 180 MYR


Budget

La plupart des Repas
étant inclus dans le package Turtle Island, et en ayant sauté 2 Repas, les dépenses nourriture n'ont Ete only 2 square meals + drinks + appetizers for a total of 120 MYR.

Out tickets KK-JB, that's 2.470 MYR (488 euros) for 2, which is very expensive for the region.

I will explore ways of islands with turtles out of Borneo, which would probably be much cheaper. If you visit this site and you have any news, I'm interested.


Contacts

- Borneo Adventure (Tour Operator with secure website for payment): http://www.borneoadventure.com
- Crystal Quest, which manages the restaurant and housing on Turtle Island: Tel: ( +60) 089212711 Fax: 089 212 712 email: cquest@tm.net.my (Based on personal experience and opinions on forums, these people are reachable 1 in 100)
- May Fair Hotel, Sandakan Tel: (+60) 089 219 855 24 Jalan Pryer


=== =====> LINK TO PHOTO ALBUM -> HERE <===========

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