link to the photo album -> here
few months ago, I had told the ascent of Mount Rinjani, which I presented as the ideal health path. I found better! What do you say to a trek on a frozen river with slides, climbing above the empty, no shower, no toilets, nights at -25 degrees ...?
Bon bah even if I have not sold well here is the story of my holidays spent on the Chadar Trek. Chadar is the name given to the Zanskar river when it is frozen, allowing residents of remote villages in the region of Zanskar linking Leh, capital of Ladakh.
The trek starts at Leh, a necessary step for 1-2 days of acclimatization before starting, even if the river is only at 3.200 meters. Then it was walking on the ice with the risk that the ice is broken or that the lack of solid ice does not force trekkers to climb the rocks on the sides of the River. As our guide likes to repeat "the ice of Chadar Is Like The Fashion in Mumbai, nobody knows." The trek can be peaceful as it can be a living hell. Our 15 days were moderately difficult.
At the organization of the trip, we went to 3 and we reserve the trek with Shanti Travel. For 745 euros per person for 15 days, we had a guide (Gatso), a cook (Gigmet), a wizard (Stanzin) and 7 porters. We slept in small tents with two double sleeping bag from the Indian Army. The guide, cook and assistant slept in a tent in which we pointed ate our meals. Finally, the porters slept in caves near the camp.
Our trek conditions were therefore generally very good. We've never eaten so well during the trek. Our cook, Gigmet, we cook everything from Indian food (chapati) to the Italian food (remember the 4 cheese dough, pizza, ..). The guide was super knowledgeable and very nice the whole team. Levels of climatic conditions, there were 3 periods:
- the beginning of the trek with rather mild temperatures (-10 degrees at night). The ice was good so the bearers pulled the bags on the sled run.
- The middle of the trek where we had 3 days of snow that has melted the ice and we were forced to do hard climb in the mountains. The night had been -20/-25 degrees.
- And the end of the trek where it snowed more, where he was a little less cold but when it took a long climb up the sides of the River.
Saturday, January 30
Program:
- Vol Singapore - New Delhi
- Mosque
- Red Fort
After a sleepless night in nightclubs in Singapore, we take the 7:25 plane to New Delhi and put our bags at Hotel Ivory Palace (Room Rp 1.500 for 3), whose name is more than flattering. We stop
esnuite the restaurant at Karim, a sort of large canteen rooms spread over 4-5. Indian food is good, not rave enough. Then visit the mosque until they happen to throw out the call to prayer. So we start for the Red Fort which is really not the blow to be visited.
We return to town in Connaught Place for a drink. They dine in a good Indian restaurant before returning to the hotel.
Bon bah even if I have not sold well here is the story of my holidays spent on the Chadar Trek. Chadar is the name given to the Zanskar river when it is frozen, allowing residents of remote villages in the region of Zanskar linking Leh, capital of Ladakh.
The trek starts at Leh, a necessary step for 1-2 days of acclimatization before starting, even if the river is only at 3.200 meters. Then it was walking on the ice with the risk that the ice is broken or that the lack of solid ice does not force trekkers to climb the rocks on the sides of the River. As our guide likes to repeat "the ice of Chadar Is Like The Fashion in Mumbai, nobody knows." The trek can be peaceful as it can be a living hell. Our 15 days were moderately difficult.
At the organization of the trip, we went to 3 and we reserve the trek with Shanti Travel. For 745 euros per person for 15 days, we had a guide (Gatso), a cook (Gigmet), a wizard (Stanzin) and 7 porters. We slept in small tents with two double sleeping bag from the Indian Army. The guide, cook and assistant slept in a tent in which we pointed ate our meals. Finally, the porters slept in caves near the camp.
Our trek conditions were therefore generally very good. We've never eaten so well during the trek. Our cook, Gigmet, we cook everything from Indian food (chapati) to the Italian food (remember the 4 cheese dough, pizza, ..). The guide was super knowledgeable and very nice the whole team. Levels of climatic conditions, there were 3 periods:
- the beginning of the trek with rather mild temperatures (-10 degrees at night). The ice was good so the bearers pulled the bags on the sled run.
- The middle of the trek where we had 3 days of snow that has melted the ice and we were forced to do hard climb in the mountains. The night had been -20/-25 degrees.
- And the end of the trek where it snowed more, where he was a little less cold but when it took a long climb up the sides of the River.
Saturday, January 30
Program:
- Vol Singapore - New Delhi
- Mosque
- Red Fort
After a sleepless night in nightclubs in Singapore, we take the 7:25 plane to New Delhi and put our bags at Hotel Ivory Palace (Room Rp 1.500 for 3), whose name is more than flattering. We stop
esnuite the restaurant at Karim, a sort of large canteen rooms spread over 4-5. Indian food is good, not rave enough. Then visit the mosque until they happen to throw out the call to prayer. So we start for the Red Fort which is really not the blow to be visited.
We return to town in Connaught Place for a drink. They dine in a good Indian restaurant before returning to the hotel.
Sunday, January 31
Program:
- flight from New Delhi - Leh
- Acclimatization
Sunrise 5am, we take a flight to Leh Jet Airways. The aircraft will be delayed a little over an hour, a chance to finish our night at the airport. Arrive at Leh, a travel guide Skywalker (Shanti Travel agency partner) picked us to take us to the guesthouse Deskit Villa. From the tarmac at the airport we are already surrounded by mountains.
We remain at the guesthouse until 14h, drinking tea every 10 minutes as drinking promotes acclimatization Leh is at 3,500 meters above sea level. After lunch, we go in town and because Yohann Thibaud have some shopping to do. Having robbed Decathlon and old camper when I was in Paris at Christmas, I'm pretty well equipped against the cold:
- the second skins
-
padded pants - a pair of tights
- sub gloves and mittens
- a coat gore tex
- heaters
Yohann and Thibaud buy thick sweaters and pairs of wool socks and we go back to the guesthouse. Some pictures around the guesthouse and we return we snuggle cons small heaters of the show. It is -7 degrees outside, 4 degrees in the living room and -4 degrees in the room, so we extend the evening in the lounge.
Monday, February 1
Program:
- Thiksey
Monastery - Monastery Festival Spituk
Second and last day of acclimatization at Leh, with visits to monasteries in the program. We leave around 10am for Thiksey monastery dating from the 15th century and is supposed to house a hundred monks. But today is the festival of the monastery of the monks Spituk therefore deserted the monastery. We therefore surveyed the streets of the monastery, especially enjoying the beautiful scenery surrounding before going to the festival.
arrived at the monastery of Spituk, we try to make their way to attend the show, it will be useless. The crowd is gathered around a small courtyard where you can see people dancing costumes. After having been sufficiently compressed, it was decided to leave the monastery. Below, people are betting money on blackjack.
After a late lunch we returned to the guesthouse to prepare our bags for the great adventure. We meet a new group of French (as Shanti Travel) who begin the trek a day after us. Speaking with them you realize that we will probably walking sticks, it will occupy tomorrow.
Tuesday, February 1
Program:
- Leh route - Chilling
- walk to Titsaldo
Depart 9:45. We struggle a bit to find a store open for trekking. It happens, however, buy our walking sticks. 1:45 car later, we arrive at a village of Sherpas to Chilling. These Tibetan Sherpas are paid to help build a road that would join chilling in Zanskar. The Chadar Trek could disappear or be abandoned by the locals who would favor a much shorter journey by road. But hey, we're not there yet, to judge the progress of work.
After lunch, we return the car for 15 minutes. We finally descend on the ice with the first tentative steps as soon as the ice cracks. After half an hour, we arrive at camp Titsaldo where we spend our first night.
We meet a group of Americans and French who complete the trek of 20-22 days.
They had 20 days rather quiet despite glacial temperatures the week before (-20/-25 degrees). Between the French group of Leh and this group of trekkers we realize that we are probably among the least equipped of the trek. They agree We sell rubber boots Indian (300 Rp) which seems to be the best option for this trek from the impermeability and flexibility they provide. The only drawback is the smooth sole that provides very little grip on the ice. A shoe with cleats would not be practical for the passages in the rocks.
The French group also advised us to intensify the pace of our stay. It seems that by default, organizers such as Shanti organize travel route with 4-5h of actual walking per day, from 9am to 15 hours of the afternoon. We therefore ask Gatso push up Zanskar rather than stop at Lingshed. He will ask the porters and confirm tomorrow if possible. In the meantime, we locked up our tents and I mummified in the double sleeping bag.
Wednesday, February 2
Program:
- Titsaldo to Tsomo
Our new boots on, we tackle this first real day of walking. It crosses three French who climb a mini glacier on the road. 1 time each one falls, fortunately not serious and we arrive at our first lunch on the ice.
This break is an opportunity to negotiate the extension of the trail. We walk up Zangla, porters leave there to take a taxi to Padum with the guide, cook and assistance (1,800 Rp).
A little extra walking and we arrive at camp 15h Tsomo. You go up the tents before you take a nap. Dining at 18h in the guide before attempting to gather around the fire. It dried our socks and accumulate enough heat before returning to the tent.
Thursday, February 3
Program:
- Tsomo to Nirak
Sunrise at 7.30am, departing at 9am .. As we hoped, we will lengthen the days walk. It's my birthday today and I will not forget any time soon day: 3 heavy falls on icy patches, small passages on ledges above the vacuum of crushed ice to the knee and the snow begins to fall. We arrive at camp at 17.40 Nirak.
a little tea followed by dinner during which Yohann Thibaud and make me the surprise of having a four-back quarters of France for my birthday. On this occasion, the guide takes us out a bottle of local rum to 42.8%. Premises normally cut the rum with water, but we decided to take nature. Definitely a very good birthday party to forget a trying day.
Friday, February 4
Program:
- Nirak to .... Nirak.
First up, I discovered a white blanket that covered the entire camp. It snowed all night, making the landscape beautiful but we are seriously jeopardizing the continuation of our journey. We're stuck in Nirak for the day and probably can not push up Zangla .. The path between Nirak Lingshed and through the gorges where the avalanche risk is too great.
After breakfast we depart for the village of Nirak located an hour and a quarter walk from our camp. The slope is very steep and good snow makes the ascent difficult. It happens, however, the first hamlet inhabited by 8 people and their animals (yaks, ponies, goats, ..). 20 minutes later we arrive at the main village with its Nirak monastery located in the hills. A resident takes us there while Gatso descends to the first hamlet to call and cancel the taxi that would pick us up at Zangla in the afternoon.
The monastery is nothing extraordinary. The goalkeeper takes us with him to drink tea while his wife weaves wool. Then broken in the first village where we take a cup of tea. Then we return to camp for lunch, leaving the village wait Gatso restore the phone line.
After lunch, a nap is needed. It is still snowing and several groups of trekkers converge Nirak. Some had left that morning and turned back because of snow, while others have crossed the river with water up to the waist .. If it snows tomorrow
still must await another day, see start to turn back.
Saturday, February 5
Program:
- Nirak in Lingshed
As it stopped snowing, Gatso agrees to resume the road to Lingshed. Was allowed to leave the tents and everything else. 1 ½ hours of walking on ice in single file. The snow has melted the ice, no question, therefore, move away a meter or two from the path marked out by our guide.
We then leave the river to climb the heights. It then discusses the passage more perilous trip. A ledge of 15 centimeters, smooth soled boots with a layer of snow and 25-30 meters below empty.
Nobody dies, and we continue our way through the famous gorges Gatso fears so much because of avalanches. We turn elsewhere through a tunnel dug Zanskar in an avalanche last winter.
The day finally ends in a vast plain covered with 40 centimeters of snow Lingshed in sight. It arises in the first guesthouse where we met a Dutch couple whose husband opened the forehead and nose on a previous fall. Fortunately we have not had this kind of incident in our group yet.
Sunday, February 6
Program:
- Monastery Lingshed
He returned to snow heavily, which suggests a rather quiet day. We go to visit the monastery, located an hour and a half walk in the hills of Lingshed.
Once arrived there, a monk shows us around the monastery. After a few rooms without much interest, we reach the prayer hall. A dozen monks sing while drinking tea with butter. We sit and talk a little with them before returning to the guesthouse.
the middle of our room is a stove that owners are regularly supplying wood and dried yak dung. This stove attracts the inhabitants of the house and the village children. So it's a giant squat, which is organized in our room.
After dinner we are invited to a party, a party Chang. Chang is the name of their local beer brewed. It comes in a dark room where the porters and other villagers are sitting against the wall. The first 15 minutes, nothing happens. People would stare, you feel a little uncomfortable. Then the master of ceremony comes, we put butter on the forehead as a welcome, and finally changed arrives in large buckets thaw. Mmm. But good beer goes well and we are invited by our hosts to start dancing. So we end up dance to Indian music in the middle of everyone ... priceless.
During the evening, Gatso us that if one starts to snow tomorrow Nirak while it is nice if you stay a day longer to Lingshed. We will leave around midnight, so a guide and porters will end at 4am.
Monday, February 7
Program:
- Lingshed to Nirak
snow As always, we take the road to Nirak. No question of being stranded at Lingshed must start now because the return to Leh may be more dangerous only one way.
We pass by the ridges and grooves to a very fast pace. No talking, prohibition to take pictures, rejoin the river as soon as the avalanche risk is high. Besides the tunnel through which we had passed two days ago is now blocked by a new avalanche.
The snow storm is intensifying and the wind comes whipping their faces. It is tempered, it hurts my back and shoulders, I often falls, it remains the worst day of my stay.
After all this, a nap is needed. Then
trying to dry our clothes next to the stove in the kitchen. In this camp, the trees belong to a small house and we can not make fire. It stops snowing during dinner, a good omen for the rest of the stay. As every night, we wet socks and other clothing in the sleeping bag to dry. It is -11 degrees in the tent, -20 degrees outside.
Tuesday, February 8
Program:
- Nirak - Dip
A big blue sky in the morning, morale is up. Cons by the clothes were still wet and were not in the sleeping bag froze overnight. So I spend 30 minutes to score the stove to thaw the whole. It's always cold.
We will start again. We walk in 10-15 inches of snow but, sometimes, a patch of ice rises. On one of them I slipped and broke a lens of my camera (the 17-55 opening 2.8, for those interested). The rest of my landscape photos will therefore 10-22.
We finally arrived at camp Dip which means shade in Ladakh. The camp is indeed surrounded by high mountains and is only dimly lit throughout the day. Carriers do not stay close our camp, so we start our own fire.
Wednesday, February 9
Program:
- Dip Shingra
It is -19 degrees at 9am. It was cold that night, probably -25 degrees. I'm the first up and I agree with the cave of the holders who have just started a fire.
We leave after breakfast and already the path seems difficult. The guide opens the way to the top of the water boots. Thibaud follows, ignore the instructions and off the ice floe on which we walked (you'll notice that thibinspore tried to kill his friends to make the Travel most tragic and thus increase the audience of his blog).
We find ourselves with water in the boots. So we hurry to reach the shore to empty our boots and pull our socks. The feet might freeze, so it is important to dry your feet as soon as possible and change your socks. The march continues
on huge slabs of ice. I do not, however, will fall this day .. We have lunch and an hour and a half later arrived at the camp Dip. We can finally make a fire to dry clothing.
Thursday, February 10
Program:
- Shingra to Titsaldo
We are in the last real day trek, and we will not be spared the dangerous crossings. Of the first 10 minutes, we have already climbed the rocks because the ice is unstable. The adventure continues like this until lunch.
After breakfast, the porters who were dragging their sledges on the ice narrowly avoided ending up in the river with our bags. The course will bring a final climb in the last half hour of the day. Passages on small ledges, and two passages where we had to climb to the guide stick to pass over the vacuum.
We arrive at camp Titsaldo which, covered with snow, has changed since our departure. We bring the tents one last time and spent a good part of the evening around the fire lit by the porters. We took the opportunity to distribute gratuities: 500 by carrying Rp, 1500 for Rp Stanzin, 2500 Rp per person for Gatso and Gigmet. Yohann Thibaud and also leave them some clothes and we give them our boots.
Friday, February 11
Program:
- Titsaldo to Chilling
- journey Chilling - Leh
again first up, I started a small fire to thaw my shoes who did trek not serve the entire trek. After breakfast, we walk 30 minutes on the river before returning to the road. This brings us back to the village of Sherpas.
Our taxi is not there, so we wait almost two hours by the baseball with a pair of socks and taking the last pictures of our carriers. We then took the car for a ride as the endless amount of snow that prevents the car to go fast in this road bends.
We return to the guesthouse Deskit Villa to take the first shower since we began the trek. Then we go into town for dinner with Gatso, and Gigmet Stanzin. It is Friday evening and the streets of Leh are deserted. Only hordes of dogs, cows and donkeys roam the streets. We finally find a Tibetan restaurant. Our friends leave before dessert and we therefore find no means of locomotion to return to the guesthouse. It falls on a soldier who fortunately gets back in the car.
Saturday, February 12
Program:
- Alchi monastery
- Likir
Monastery - Monastery Phyang
This last day in Leh is entirely devoted to visiting monasteries. Unfortunately there is nothing else to do in Leh. A trip that seems fun is a visit to a lake (final scene of the film 3 Idiots) but for which you need a special visa to be asked one day before.
We find the guide and driver who had accompanied us before we left on the trek. It begins with the monastery located farthest from Leh, the monastery of Alchi. The monastery contains paintings from the 11th century it is impossible to photograph. At the same time, I personally did not find anything interesting about this monument.
We then went to the monastery Likir. We leave our car to share a car with chains of a tourist German. This tourist was on the Chadar trek when he made a false move which has paralyzed the entire left side .. he was not especially fast, and as we used his car, he was probably waited a good hour. In the meantime we sympathize with kids who hang out at the only shop of the monastery.
We return to Leh breakfast before making a quick detour to the monastery of Phyang. This is the only monastery tricolor in the region. We then returned to the guesthouse to prepare our bags.
Sunday, February 13
Program:
- Flight Leh - Singapore
- Minaret Qutab
- Humayun Tomb
- Viste
Old Delhi - New Delhi flight - Singapore
After four body searches, two baggage scanners and identifying our luggage before they are loaded, it finally goes into the plane. Arrived in New Delhi, we left our luggage at "Lost & Found" from the airport and take a taxi.
It is already time for lunch, and as we wanted pizza, we left for the XXXX. Sunday buffet and it is therefore the belly explodes for 1,500 Rp advantage also is that the restaurant is only 10 minutes by rickshaw from the Qutab Minar. Some pictures and after we leave for Huamyun's Qutab. This is a kind of red version of the Taj Mahal in Agra. This is probably my favorite monument in New Delhi visit.
We end the day with a visit to Old Delhi. Then it's back to the airport and Singapore.
major payments
New Delhi - Rickshaw: 100 Rp / trip
- Airport Taxi - City: 450 Rp
- Ivory Palace hotel room: 1,500 Rp
Leh - Delhi flight - Leh: Rp 11.939 / person
- Shanti Travel: 745 euros / person
- Poles march (+ Thermal): 3,400 Rp
- Boots: 300 Rp
- Pair of socks Ladakhi: 220 Rp
- Pull Ladakhi: 1,100 Rp
Contacts
- Poles march (+ Thermal): 3,400 Rp
- Boots: 300 Rp
- Pair of socks Ladakhi: 220 Rp
- Pull Ladakhi: 1,100 Rp
Contacts
- New Delhi:
. Indian Restaurant at Hotel Ajanta, 36 Arakashan Road, Ram Nagar, New Delhi 110055.
PhoneL 42350000 Email: info@ajantahotel.com http://www.ajantahotel.com/
Room Reservation: 9818544466, 011-29562097 info@hotelajanta.com
. SHANTI ADVENTURE TOURS PVTLTDC -66 Okhla Phase 1, New Delhi - 110 020 - INDIATel: (00 91) 11 46 07 78 00 / France: (+ 33) 8 70 40 76 17 / Fax: (00 91) 11 46 07 78 99E-mail: contact@shantitravel.com / Website: www.shantitravel.com
- Leh
. Skywalker Travel (Travel Agency partner Shanti)
Fort Road, Leh Ladakh 194101, India
Tel: +91-1982-255165, 253498 / Fax: + 91 - 1982-254806
Email: lobsang@skywalkertravel.com skywalker@sancharnet.in / www.skywalkertravel.com
Fort Road, Leh Ladakh 194101, India
Tel: +91-1982-255165, 253498 / Fax: + 91 - 1982-254806
Email: lobsang@skywalkertravel.com skywalker@sancharnet.in / www.skywalkertravel.com
. Gatso (guide): coming soon
link to the photo album -> here
