Dear readers, I do not have time to shape the narrative, enhance photos, .. immediately. So I prefer to deliver the raw story foundry and I invite you to view the photo album: here
(Warning some pictures may offend the sensibilities of the youth, older .. and everything else)
Meat or fish?
At this existential question that we answered the 2! So we start in Sulawesi this time. Island located northeast of Java, Sulawesi is also known as the Celebes Islands.
The trip will be divided into 2:
- 3 days in Manado, one of the best diving and snorkeling in Indonesia
- 5 days Toreja Tana, Sulawesi region known for its relationship to death that people maintain through large ceremonies Homes and traditions.
Friday, August 14
parties at 17h05 by a Lion Air flight, we here at 17:45 at the airport in Jakarta where we spend the night before joining Sulawesi in the morning. We joined Yohann Hotel Mulia Sayana after passage through a traditional plugs the Indonesian capital.
We share dinner in one of the oldest bars in Jakarta, Jaya Pub. Saloon atmosphere filled with humorous posters and bells to congratulate the band that seems straight out of the 70s. There dine, they play pool before trying our luck at Zen, located a few steps from. The box is empty .. direction the Red Square. Then it will be the X2 before returning to the hotel at 2:30. It gets our bags and take a Lion Air plane 5am to Manado.
Saturday, August 15
We arrive at 9:30 in Manado, the main town of North Sulawesi. We joined a jetty by taxi from Manado (Rp 77.000) before embarking on board a small boat (100,000 Rp per person). The 40 hp engine misfire, we will need more than an hour to reach Pulau Bunaken. Having
as usual nothing booked, we broke the nose al'Homestay Guesthouse. We are also surprised to see that the manager refuses us breakfast, is reserved for customers who sleep at the hotel. It therefore incorporates the boat that takes us to the Bunaken Sea Garden Resort. They have a free room, mud.
The Bunaken Sea Garden Resort is run by an Indonesian woman, Sonia, who started his business two months ago. It is currently composed of the main house and two bungalows, a third is under construction. The bungalow cost us Rp 275.000 per person with three meals a day.
We start with a small Nasi Goreng before renting snorkeling equipment and baptize my new camera (Canon Powershot G10 + waterproof) that I acquired following the death of my bridge to the Perhentian Islands.
About fifty meters from shore, a real cliff diving lies beneath our feet. Thousands of fish around us, corals in good condition .. the best site for snorkeling we've seen so far. A few hundred pictures later, we return to the guesthouse.
Dinner at 18:30 rice, Indonesian sashimi (sliced tuna) and fried vegetable patties. We'll meet Christiane and Stephen, who spends 6 months a year in order to give Bunaken diving courses. They briefent us on the island: no bars, people eat all the guesthouses in or they sleep, .. So this will be very quiet three days. Before bed, we organize a little trip with Sonia boat the next morning, dolphins and snorkeling in the program. RP 600.000 .. ale .. kerosene has doubled in price since the Indonesian government has adopted to absorb the increase in oil prices.
Sunday, August 16
Sunrise 5:30 am. Depart 6:30. We reach in 30 minutes an area almost surrounded by the islands. Usually this tour to attend the tuna fishery that attracts hundreds of dolphins. Today is Sunday so no fishing. Tomorrow is a holiday National therefore no fishing either. It was therefore decided to try our luck today.
Dolphins will go well, by small groups of 5 to 10 individuals. As feared, they swim about twenty yards from the boat before we plunge comes too. It was later learned that we would ask the captain to shut off his engine for a chance to get closer .. too bad.
Then we go to another site for snorkeling. The current is pretty strong in that it approaches the cliff diving. I remain mostly in shallower water. Among the many fish, this family of clown fish caught my attention.
We return around 10 am at the guesthouse. Little snorkeling. The water is clear. I begin to understand the tricks of underwater photography, it must be near the fish .. thing rather hard with parrot fish that pass at full speed in front of me.
After lunch (mackerel, eggplant and rice), it starts to swim. You can see the Napoleons and even dugongs (manatee cousins) so I'm willing to spend two days left in the water. He is 14h and is ebbing tide, the sea is murky and many debris (plant and plastics). Most of the pollution is caused by the river that runs through Manado.
At 16:30, we start from the village to see the sunset. Half an hour walk and here we are at the foot of the imposing church of Bunaken. The vast majority of the 7,000 islanders are Catholic. Tripod unfolded on the beach is waiting patiently, watching the many children playing in water, and an Indonesian who bathes with his chimpanzee. At 17:30, the sun will keep all its promises.
Dinner at the guesthouse (pork, rice and Sembal) and a splendid marble cake homemade that we had begged gently. During the dinner, Christiane and Stephen warn the danger posed by Titan Triggerfish who often prey to snorkelers. Looking through the pictures, we see that it's a fish I chase to take a picture .. here we are now warned.
Monday, August 17
We're attacking today our last day in Manado. Today is National Day, Indonesia celebrates its independence. So we share in Ojek (motorbike taxi) for the village (5,000 Rp per person). Visit a school or a hundred children are gathered. This ceremony does not honestly remain in my memory. For nearly two hours, we read the Declaration of Independence, interspersed with military marches and music on bamboo instruments.
We return to the guesthouse and leave on snorkeling around 10am. That tide .. In the absence of a good snorkeling, you help the Indonesians out of a boat 10 meters in length caught in the corals.
Lunch at the guesthouse (mackerel, rice and noodles) (you'll notice that we have rice with every meal ...) before returning to use water 15h. Excellent snorkeling. We will unfortunately not the Napoleons or Dogongs. By cons I'm glad I could take this fish Leo ..
Diner (tuna, rice and salsify), then we set the note of stay. Rp 3,100,000 for 2. (Details below) which includes the boat the next morning,
Tuesday, August 18
Lever 4am. We said goodbye to Sonia and her staff. We take the boat (Rp 350.000) at night to return to Manado. Fortunately it's high tide and the moon is almost full. So smoothly, in 30 minutes, we return to the pier.
The taxi that holds Sonia awaits us at the airport and took us (100,000 Rp). It's 6am. We thought our plane was leaving at 8 am, in fact he left at 6:45 am. A little sprint at the counter, however, allows us to save us time and time. It fulfills the domestic airport tax (Rp 30.000 per person) before entering our third Lion Air flight stay.
1 hour and half later and we set foot on the tarmac at the airport in Makassar. Yohann and our guide, Aryo, we wait. With only five days to visit the area of Tana Toreja we have indeed chosen to make our lives easier by having nothing to organize. Find ourselves a means of transport between sites could cause us to lose much time.
Led by the driver of Aryo, Mamoud, we reach Sengkang in about 5 hours. We had lunch in a restaurant before making our neighborhoods hotel Pondok Era. Rather away from other tourists when we were in Pulau Bunaken, it is often with other tourists, especially French, whether in restaurants, hotels or attractions.
At 16h, we go to the lake Danau temple located a few minutes away. Two long motorized canoes await us. We sail on a canal for 30 minutes before reaching a village of houses on stilts. The scenery is beautiful, people are friendly on the shore. Taking tea in the village before returning by the same path.
Then it's dinner and back to Athens.
Wednesday, August 19
Sunrise 6am. Today is a great day is a day of funeral, the very reason why we find ourselves in Sulawesi has this time of year. These ceremonies take place in effect between July and September. So there are ceremonies almost every day, you just have the luck it takes place nearby.
ceremony or we go to is located 18km south of Makale, right on the path that was expected. We therefore reject the visit traditional villages later, focus on ceremonies. We will have no less than 5 hours to go to Sengkang Makale.
The Toraja funeral takes place in several stages:
- 1st stage: placement of the coffin
For the ceremony where we are, the family keeps the body inside the house for over a year. Families often keep the body for several years to save enough money for the ceremony. The deceased is considered to be patient until the ceremony is held.
- 2nd stage: receiving prompts
Guests are welcomed in your wooden structures built solely for the ceremony. To feed the guests, a few buffalo are killed and pigs.
- 3rd stage:
sacrifice of buffaloes were sacrificed buffalo meat and we share with guests, members of the family and the most dominant families in the village. A buffalo can cost up to 15 million rupiah. Many families go into debt for a ceremony so she spends her whole life to repay its debts. So the government tries to limit his funeral rites in fixing, for example, a limit to the number of cattle killed.
- 4th stage: funeral
Each stage usually lasts one day. For important people, receiving guests can take several days. These ceremonies have two main objectives: to show the richness of family and allow the dead to reach heaven. More money is spent, the faster the deceased's soul to heaven.
Today is therefore receiving prompts. The guests go first in a penitentiary in order to take tea and Bethel, before taking place in the numbered boxes. As is tradition, we bring a carton of Kretek cigarettes that we give to the family.
Just happens, people are busy around a gutted pig, it starts well. A little later, before the main house Tongkonan the site, two buffalo heads lying on the ground. They have already killed the buffalo to be served for lunch.
is mounted to two new houses Tongkonan. A man filled a bamboo tube with pork tripe. And a few feet higher, a man comes s'assener stabbed in the heart of a pig and presses the wound he vacuum his blood. They also begin to remove the guts of the pig, I digress ...
The BBQ pork causes less disgust me. In the first Muslim country in the world (Indonesia), the people of Tano Toreja 65% are Protestants.
We spend more than two hours into the ceremony. There was a chance that we will see a buffalo sacrifice but it will not happen. We therefore share the hotel Milisiana II Makale. The hotel is rather nice, large complex of 300 rooms in traditional houses Toraja, the Tongkonan.
Dinner buffet at the hotel and to bed.
Thursday, August 20
Today is visiting the main attractions in the south and east of Rantepao. We begin by
Lemo. A cliff stands before us. Within the cliff tombs have been dug and a small figurine al'effigie of death has a small balcony. These small figurines are called tau-tau. They are reserved for noble families, and we must sacrifice 24 buffaloes for the right has its tau-tau. To the left of the cliff, two rice bowl-shaped house Tongkonan. We start on the left for a short tour that takes us to see the artisans and gift shops.
We will then march in Makale. The market is held every six days. The first part is that of pigs. One hundred pigs are extensions before us. Each pig is attached to a bamboo board and around has to be taken to a funeral. The second part is a traditional market with fruits, vegetables, utensils, .. We finish the walk by a cockfight. Some Indonesian yank their cocks with small fights a few seconds to sharpen their fighting instincts.
We then went to Suai. It's the same thing but with less Lemo, A cliff contains a few tau-tau. A long running series takes us on a point of view rather mediocre. Then it
Tempagallo, a cave in the middle of rice fields or lie many skulls and bones. A few tau-tau on a balcony overlooking the stage.
The last visit of the morning will Sengalla. It is a tree in which were some empty graves for stillborn babies.
We then enjoy the local specialty: chicken cooked in bamboo. Lunch is followed by a stroll through the fields or the local farmers are busy.
The guide then takes us to Londa. Some coffins suspended and tau-tau OUTSIDE. Inside, two caves and coffins containing bones. One of these coffins was even brought 10 days ago.
Finally, we conclude with chum Kesu. A dozen houses Tongkonan surrounded by rice fields. Then they will be hanging coffins and a huge quantity of bones.
We will then overnight at Mountain Lodge Merotiku Batutumonga in the hope of a magnificent sunrise over the valley.
Friday, August 21
Sunrise 5am. Our cameras in hand, one expects the sunrise. The sky is too cloudy, we guess a little landscape through the haze. It goes back to bed, we're supposed to go visit the village at 9am,
At 8am, Aryo us out of bed. A buffalo sacrifice takes place a few miles from here. No upsets our program again. The banana pancake breakfast waiting for him too.
We arrive in a courtyard surrounded by wooden houses full of local and two dozen tourists. 15 buffalo standing in the center of the arena. After one hour, people take turns at the microphone. He speaks the dialect of the Tana Toreja, we do not know what happens. The ride lasts for many tens of minutes. It was later learned that the family of the deceased (whose body guard was 16 years before the ceremony) and the richest families in the village did not agree on the sharing of buffaloes.
They had to find common ground as a loud noise takes us by surprise. One man comes to seize a knife and slit the throat of the buffalo he was guarding. A huge wound leaving a trickle of blood escaping from the throat of the buffalo. He fell to the ground, gets up, walks a little. It then remains standing, looking haggard, before falling to the ground and choking for several minutes. A second offering comes in the wake.
Ten minutes later, Aryo asks us to go. It would appear that families are still not agreed and that negotiations will continue. Fortunately, it is time to make our latest photos. So long that we started to see people plant stakes into the ground to which they attach buffalo .. the killing does not seem finished. Indeed, while the first two executions were ordered rather, they begin to settle the throats of buffalo to the chain, see several at the same time. The show is astonishing, ox fall one by one on the ground to the cheers of the audience. Premises to smile while most tourists do rather livid face was the profusion of blood. We leave while a dozen corpses litter the ground and withdraw the local buffalo skin still warm.
is 12 when we return at the hotel for lunch. We then three hours of walking amid landscapes of rice fields. These are not the most scenic landscapes that we have been given to see, but it changes the last two days that were spent only bones, coffins and sacrifices. There will still be in a village or take a new funeral. They are at the reception of guests, two bodies of water buffalo are being skinned.
Overnight at the hotel again Missiliana II Makale.
(Warning some pictures may offend the sensibilities of the youth, older .. and everything else)
Meat or fish?
At this existential question that we answered the 2! So we start in Sulawesi this time. Island located northeast of Java, Sulawesi is also known as the Celebes Islands.
The trip will be divided into 2:
- 3 days in Manado, one of the best diving and snorkeling in Indonesia
- 5 days Toreja Tana, Sulawesi region known for its relationship to death that people maintain through large ceremonies Homes and traditions.
Friday, August 14
parties at 17h05 by a Lion Air flight, we here at 17:45 at the airport in Jakarta where we spend the night before joining Sulawesi in the morning. We joined Yohann Hotel Mulia Sayana after passage through a traditional plugs the Indonesian capital.
We share dinner in one of the oldest bars in Jakarta, Jaya Pub. Saloon atmosphere filled with humorous posters and bells to congratulate the band that seems straight out of the 70s. There dine, they play pool before trying our luck at Zen, located a few steps from. The box is empty .. direction the Red Square. Then it will be the X2 before returning to the hotel at 2:30. It gets our bags and take a Lion Air plane 5am to Manado.
Saturday, August 15
We arrive at 9:30 in Manado, the main town of North Sulawesi. We joined a jetty by taxi from Manado (Rp 77.000) before embarking on board a small boat (100,000 Rp per person). The 40 hp engine misfire, we will need more than an hour to reach Pulau Bunaken. Having
as usual nothing booked, we broke the nose al'Homestay Guesthouse. We are also surprised to see that the manager refuses us breakfast, is reserved for customers who sleep at the hotel. It therefore incorporates the boat that takes us to the Bunaken Sea Garden Resort. They have a free room, mud.
The Bunaken Sea Garden Resort is run by an Indonesian woman, Sonia, who started his business two months ago. It is currently composed of the main house and two bungalows, a third is under construction. The bungalow cost us Rp 275.000 per person with three meals a day.
We start with a small Nasi Goreng before renting snorkeling equipment and baptize my new camera (Canon Powershot G10 + waterproof) that I acquired following the death of my bridge to the Perhentian Islands.
About fifty meters from shore, a real cliff diving lies beneath our feet. Thousands of fish around us, corals in good condition .. the best site for snorkeling we've seen so far. A few hundred pictures later, we return to the guesthouse.
Dinner at 18:30 rice, Indonesian sashimi (sliced tuna) and fried vegetable patties. We'll meet Christiane and Stephen, who spends 6 months a year in order to give Bunaken diving courses. They briefent us on the island: no bars, people eat all the guesthouses in or they sleep, .. So this will be very quiet three days. Before bed, we organize a little trip with Sonia boat the next morning, dolphins and snorkeling in the program. RP 600.000 .. ale .. kerosene has doubled in price since the Indonesian government has adopted to absorb the increase in oil prices.
Sunday, August 16
Sunrise 5:30 am. Depart 6:30. We reach in 30 minutes an area almost surrounded by the islands. Usually this tour to attend the tuna fishery that attracts hundreds of dolphins. Today is Sunday so no fishing. Tomorrow is a holiday National therefore no fishing either. It was therefore decided to try our luck today.
Dolphins will go well, by small groups of 5 to 10 individuals. As feared, they swim about twenty yards from the boat before we plunge comes too. It was later learned that we would ask the captain to shut off his engine for a chance to get closer .. too bad.
Then we go to another site for snorkeling. The current is pretty strong in that it approaches the cliff diving. I remain mostly in shallower water. Among the many fish, this family of clown fish caught my attention.
We return around 10 am at the guesthouse. Little snorkeling. The water is clear. I begin to understand the tricks of underwater photography, it must be near the fish .. thing rather hard with parrot fish that pass at full speed in front of me.
After lunch (mackerel, eggplant and rice), it starts to swim. You can see the Napoleons and even dugongs (manatee cousins) so I'm willing to spend two days left in the water. He is 14h and is ebbing tide, the sea is murky and many debris (plant and plastics). Most of the pollution is caused by the river that runs through Manado.
At 16:30, we start from the village to see the sunset. Half an hour walk and here we are at the foot of the imposing church of Bunaken. The vast majority of the 7,000 islanders are Catholic. Tripod unfolded on the beach is waiting patiently, watching the many children playing in water, and an Indonesian who bathes with his chimpanzee. At 17:30, the sun will keep all its promises.
Dinner at the guesthouse (pork, rice and Sembal) and a splendid marble cake homemade that we had begged gently. During the dinner, Christiane and Stephen warn the danger posed by Titan Triggerfish who often prey to snorkelers. Looking through the pictures, we see that it's a fish I chase to take a picture .. here we are now warned.
Monday, August 17
We're attacking today our last day in Manado. Today is National Day, Indonesia celebrates its independence. So we share in Ojek (motorbike taxi) for the village (5,000 Rp per person). Visit a school or a hundred children are gathered. This ceremony does not honestly remain in my memory. For nearly two hours, we read the Declaration of Independence, interspersed with military marches and music on bamboo instruments.
We return to the guesthouse and leave on snorkeling around 10am. That tide .. In the absence of a good snorkeling, you help the Indonesians out of a boat 10 meters in length caught in the corals.
Lunch at the guesthouse (mackerel, rice and noodles) (you'll notice that we have rice with every meal ...) before returning to use water 15h. Excellent snorkeling. We will unfortunately not the Napoleons or Dogongs. By cons I'm glad I could take this fish Leo ..
Diner (tuna, rice and salsify), then we set the note of stay. Rp 3,100,000 for 2. (Details below) which includes the boat the next morning,
Tuesday, August 18
Lever 4am. We said goodbye to Sonia and her staff. We take the boat (Rp 350.000) at night to return to Manado. Fortunately it's high tide and the moon is almost full. So smoothly, in 30 minutes, we return to the pier.
The taxi that holds Sonia awaits us at the airport and took us (100,000 Rp). It's 6am. We thought our plane was leaving at 8 am, in fact he left at 6:45 am. A little sprint at the counter, however, allows us to save us time and time. It fulfills the domestic airport tax (Rp 30.000 per person) before entering our third Lion Air flight stay.
1 hour and half later and we set foot on the tarmac at the airport in Makassar. Yohann and our guide, Aryo, we wait. With only five days to visit the area of Tana Toreja we have indeed chosen to make our lives easier by having nothing to organize. Find ourselves a means of transport between sites could cause us to lose much time.
Led by the driver of Aryo, Mamoud, we reach Sengkang in about 5 hours. We had lunch in a restaurant before making our neighborhoods hotel Pondok Era. Rather away from other tourists when we were in Pulau Bunaken, it is often with other tourists, especially French, whether in restaurants, hotels or attractions.
At 16h, we go to the lake Danau temple located a few minutes away. Two long motorized canoes await us. We sail on a canal for 30 minutes before reaching a village of houses on stilts. The scenery is beautiful, people are friendly on the shore. Taking tea in the village before returning by the same path.
Then it's dinner and back to Athens.
Wednesday, August 19
Sunrise 6am. Today is a great day is a day of funeral, the very reason why we find ourselves in Sulawesi has this time of year. These ceremonies take place in effect between July and September. So there are ceremonies almost every day, you just have the luck it takes place nearby.
ceremony or we go to is located 18km south of Makale, right on the path that was expected. We therefore reject the visit traditional villages later, focus on ceremonies. We will have no less than 5 hours to go to Sengkang Makale.
The Toraja funeral takes place in several stages:
- 1st stage: placement of the coffin
For the ceremony where we are, the family keeps the body inside the house for over a year. Families often keep the body for several years to save enough money for the ceremony. The deceased is considered to be patient until the ceremony is held.
- 2nd stage: receiving prompts
Guests are welcomed in your wooden structures built solely for the ceremony. To feed the guests, a few buffalo are killed and pigs.
- 3rd stage:
sacrifice of buffaloes were sacrificed buffalo meat and we share with guests, members of the family and the most dominant families in the village. A buffalo can cost up to 15 million rupiah. Many families go into debt for a ceremony so she spends her whole life to repay its debts. So the government tries to limit his funeral rites in fixing, for example, a limit to the number of cattle killed.
- 4th stage: funeral
Each stage usually lasts one day. For important people, receiving guests can take several days. These ceremonies have two main objectives: to show the richness of family and allow the dead to reach heaven. More money is spent, the faster the deceased's soul to heaven.
Today is therefore receiving prompts. The guests go first in a penitentiary in order to take tea and Bethel, before taking place in the numbered boxes. As is tradition, we bring a carton of Kretek cigarettes that we give to the family.
Just happens, people are busy around a gutted pig, it starts well. A little later, before the main house Tongkonan the site, two buffalo heads lying on the ground. They have already killed the buffalo to be served for lunch.
is mounted to two new houses Tongkonan. A man filled a bamboo tube with pork tripe. And a few feet higher, a man comes s'assener stabbed in the heart of a pig and presses the wound he vacuum his blood. They also begin to remove the guts of the pig, I digress ...
The BBQ pork causes less disgust me. In the first Muslim country in the world (Indonesia), the people of Tano Toreja 65% are Protestants.
We spend more than two hours into the ceremony. There was a chance that we will see a buffalo sacrifice but it will not happen. We therefore share the hotel Milisiana II Makale. The hotel is rather nice, large complex of 300 rooms in traditional houses Toraja, the Tongkonan.
Dinner buffet at the hotel and to bed.
Thursday, August 20
Today is visiting the main attractions in the south and east of Rantepao. We begin by
Lemo. A cliff stands before us. Within the cliff tombs have been dug and a small figurine al'effigie of death has a small balcony. These small figurines are called tau-tau. They are reserved for noble families, and we must sacrifice 24 buffaloes for the right has its tau-tau. To the left of the cliff, two rice bowl-shaped house Tongkonan. We start on the left for a short tour that takes us to see the artisans and gift shops.
We will then march in Makale. The market is held every six days. The first part is that of pigs. One hundred pigs are extensions before us. Each pig is attached to a bamboo board and around has to be taken to a funeral. The second part is a traditional market with fruits, vegetables, utensils, .. We finish the walk by a cockfight. Some Indonesian yank their cocks with small fights a few seconds to sharpen their fighting instincts.
We then went to Suai. It's the same thing but with less Lemo, A cliff contains a few tau-tau. A long running series takes us on a point of view rather mediocre. Then it
Tempagallo, a cave in the middle of rice fields or lie many skulls and bones. A few tau-tau on a balcony overlooking the stage.
The last visit of the morning will Sengalla. It is a tree in which were some empty graves for stillborn babies.
We then enjoy the local specialty: chicken cooked in bamboo. Lunch is followed by a stroll through the fields or the local farmers are busy.
The guide then takes us to Londa. Some coffins suspended and tau-tau OUTSIDE. Inside, two caves and coffins containing bones. One of these coffins was even brought 10 days ago.
Finally, we conclude with chum Kesu. A dozen houses Tongkonan surrounded by rice fields. Then they will be hanging coffins and a huge quantity of bones.
We will then overnight at Mountain Lodge Merotiku Batutumonga in the hope of a magnificent sunrise over the valley.
Friday, August 21
Sunrise 5am. Our cameras in hand, one expects the sunrise. The sky is too cloudy, we guess a little landscape through the haze. It goes back to bed, we're supposed to go visit the village at 9am,
At 8am, Aryo us out of bed. A buffalo sacrifice takes place a few miles from here. No upsets our program again. The banana pancake breakfast waiting for him too.
We arrive in a courtyard surrounded by wooden houses full of local and two dozen tourists. 15 buffalo standing in the center of the arena. After one hour, people take turns at the microphone. He speaks the dialect of the Tana Toreja, we do not know what happens. The ride lasts for many tens of minutes. It was later learned that the family of the deceased (whose body guard was 16 years before the ceremony) and the richest families in the village did not agree on the sharing of buffaloes.
They had to find common ground as a loud noise takes us by surprise. One man comes to seize a knife and slit the throat of the buffalo he was guarding. A huge wound leaving a trickle of blood escaping from the throat of the buffalo. He fell to the ground, gets up, walks a little. It then remains standing, looking haggard, before falling to the ground and choking for several minutes. A second offering comes in the wake.
Ten minutes later, Aryo asks us to go. It would appear that families are still not agreed and that negotiations will continue. Fortunately, it is time to make our latest photos. So long that we started to see people plant stakes into the ground to which they attach buffalo .. the killing does not seem finished. Indeed, while the first two executions were ordered rather, they begin to settle the throats of buffalo to the chain, see several at the same time. The show is astonishing, ox fall one by one on the ground to the cheers of the audience. Premises to smile while most tourists do rather livid face was the profusion of blood. We leave while a dozen corpses litter the ground and withdraw the local buffalo skin still warm.
is 12 when we return at the hotel for lunch. We then three hours of walking amid landscapes of rice fields. These are not the most scenic landscapes that we have been given to see, but it changes the last two days that were spent only bones, coffins and sacrifices. There will still be in a village or take a new funeral. They are at the reception of guests, two bodies of water buffalo are being skinned.
Overnight at the hotel again Missiliana II Makale.
Saturday, August 22
Depart 6:30. This day will be reserved exclusively to the path of a Makale Makassar. We arrive to the airport in Makassar 14h then take a flight to Jakarta and Lion Air ValueAir to Singapore.
Major expenditures:
Jakarta - Indonesia Visa: $ 25 / person for more than 7 days
- Airport Taxi - Mulia: 150,000 Rp
- One night in the bars of Jakarta: ca n has no price (finally count 500,000 / person for the evening)
- Domestic airport tax: Rp 40.000
Manado - Manado airport taxi - jetty: 80,000 Rp
- Boat: Rp 100.000 / person
- Bunaken Sear Garden Resort: Rp 275.000 / person / day , Half-day boat (600,000 Rp), rental of snorkeling equipment (100,000 Rp / day), Manado-Bunaken boat (Rp 350.000)
Makassar
- Guide 5 days: 215 euros (includes housing, rights of entrance, car and driver and meals except drinks)
Budget
Count Rp 6,500,000 per person per stay (excluding airfare).
Contacts
- Bunaken Sea Garden Resort
Sonia Wolok, manager. Website: www.bunakenseagardenresort.com
Tel: +62-81244738802
- Aryo Guide (French)
Tel: +62 812 428 6448
=> Link to Photo Album -> here
