healthy forces Friday is a weekend of three days before us. The perfect opportunity to add a volcano under my belt. Indonesia direction therefore, far eastern island of Java, for climbing the volcano Ijen Kawah.
Enthroned at 2.368 meters of altitude, the Kawah Ijen is not the most difficult of the volcanoes that we had to climb. That same the best value for effort. With its production of 4 tons of sulfur per day, the volcano is one of the largest reserves of natural volcanic sulfur but that holding the former is rather anecdotal across the world production of sulfur. The
Kawah Ijen crater lake is home acid oval one kilometer long, 600 wide and turquoise due to the extreme acidity of its water, which earned him to be regarded as the most acidic lake the world.
We will miss one day to continue with the ascent of a nearby volcano, Merapi. The latter suspects it will be a future trip. But for now here is the story of the weekend: Operation sulfur Kawah Ijen.
=> LINK TO THE PHOTO ALBUM -> HERE
Friday, April 10, 2009
Program:
- Singapore flight -
Surabaya - Surabaya route - Sempol
Sunrise 5:30 am. Thibaud I agree to the airport at 6:15. Two hours Silkair and here we are at an airport that I know only too well, the airport of Surabaya.
two options for joining us Bondowoso: bus (5h, 24,000 Rp) or taxi. The timing is rather short this weekend, especially today, we opt for the taxi. The official taxi counter is expensive (Rp 750.000), negotiations may live 5 minutes by taxi to lower the price to Rp 550.000 to note that the volcano is also accessible from the South (Banyuwangi), but the journey is more along the road and requires the rental of a 4x4 and is therefore be a more expensive option.
An hour after leaving, we asked the taxi to stop in to visit Lapindo Sidoarjo is the name given by locals to this natural disaster which saw a pool of mud
and water 9 and buried entire villages that do not seem to stop anytime soon. I still remember there more than two years, that our path for Semeru was disrupted by the mudslide. I did not think the damage was so deep. The May 29, 2006, the company Lapindo drilling the ground in search of a pocket of gas. Instead of gas, it will be a geyser of mud that the company discovered. Delaying to reseal the hole, the mud flow rate increases to quickly become unstoppable and more than 12,000 people plunged into disarray, despite a compensation of Rs 5.5 million per family ($ 550).
one disaster, the Indonesian arrive to make a business. If revenues go to the victims, so it shocks me less. Scaffolds take them to the top of the dam was built. At the foot of the scaffold, a group of Indonesian collect entrance fees (5,000 Rp per person). At the top of the dike, motorcycles waiting to take tourists around the lake. They also sell DVDs of the disaster. We stick for now to some pictures of the geyser and houses and trees covered with the mixture of water and mud.
It takes the car and we stop for lunch after more than three hours away. Nasi goreng and first-pink rice in a long line ... We arrive at 15h to Bondowoso. We will
directly to the bus station to try to reach Sempol as quickly as possible because of PHKA Sempol, which issues permits for Kawah-Ijen closes at 17h. The bus station is nearly empty. The turnkey confirm our fears, the bus Sempol are finished, the next will be tomorrow at 6:30. So we start looking for a bémo drives, sort of mini-buses. When bémo drives is full, it is Rp 15.000 per person to join Sempol. Here we are only two wanted to join Sempol .. We offer local drivers and seem Rp 300.000 unwilling to negotiate. Beginning at once, they come to us and offer Rp 250.000 was not much choice, we must either Sempol tonight and have enough time to organize the next day's ascent. Here we therefore extended to the rear of the Bemo. After nearly two hours of bumpy road, we arrive at a guard post or it will be enough to put our names on the register and we
pay Rp 10,000 per person. He is 17h and we are not yet Sempol ... Three kilometers later and we arrive at the Arabika Guesthouse, which seems be known to all premises. It takes a room with two beds (125,000 Rp). We then organize our ascent with the servant of the guesthouse. He has obviously not studied at Oxford and are therefore pleased to see an Indonesian tourist help us make the translations. It requires two ojek (moped) with drivers for the next day at 4:30 (35,000 Rp / trip / person). Tourists say they can find a little cheaper on the street. It goes easier and we accept the price of the guesthouse. We dine and then meet an Egyptian and his girlfriend who live in Singapore, as well as working for a French tour operator and takes two Dutch go around Java and Bali. He is 22h, time to go to bed for a short night.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Program:
- Ascension volcano Ijen-Kawah
- Cascade Air Terajun
- Sempol trip - Bondowoso
Sunrise 4:10. The drivers are ready. We swallow the breakfast included with the room (coffee, boiled eggs and toast) and take the road. 20 to 30 minutes of a wonderful journey, a sea of stagnant mist at the foot of the volcano, and here we are at PHKA Paltuding Pos. Lonely Planet announced that it did not open 7h30h that morning, it is not. We register again (15,000 Rp per person). It's 5am and we begin the 3km walk. It's a little cool, but unfortunately not enough to inaugurate fresh clothing competition that I bought before leaving for the weekend. 
way, we already find the carriers sulfur which lay their loads of sulfur.
after about 40 minutes we arrive at a small house or the holders 
come weigh sulfur. The balance system seems rather archaic. Once the load hanging from the goddess, a weight is slid onto a rod of iron to determine the weight of the load. An officer noted the weight in a notebook, the weight determines the salary to be received by each holder. Holders are generally 4 roundtrips per day with loads usually weighs 70 to 85 kg. Holders will have roughly double the average wage (5 euros per day), but their extreme working conditions, gives them a life expectancy of 40 years.
We set off again for about the last third of the climb. Each holder usually requires that we photograph of cigarettes, sometimes a little money. So I distribute a few cigarettes. Many baskets as sulfur littering the course, probably carriers who try to make the most of the sulfur by delaying harvest weighing. Weather conditions are deteriorating generally around 10, so the carriers desert crater.
It is 6am and we see below the crater , lake and sulfur fumaroles. Below, dozens of porters are working hard to seem collection. The view of the crater is
a little pool, so we decided to go down rather than go around the crater, to note that the descent into the crater is strongly discouraged. Some tourists have died of heart attack, choking or falling. Thibaud, to get ready to travel, even shows me a website or a photographer said he had a bloody nose for 3 days following the descent into the crater. So at the risk of our lives that we begin the descent. The path is a bit steep, especially very narrow, which does not facilitate the crossing with the porters going up and down. No hostility on their part, contrary to what some websites tell, but it should not however forget that we are on the workplace and do everything to avoid the interference.
With numerous photo shoots we need a good quarter of an hour to reach the bottom.
On our left, collect the two carriers a fumarole sulfur using an iron bar, they break the sulfur and deposit the pieces in their basket. The smell is not as strong as we have seen in other volcanoes, as Sibayak Sumatra. A scarf over the nose, we are moving forward cautiously, waiting for a gust of wind that would send a cloud of sulfur on us. The carriers are themselves completely in the cloud of sulfur. Generally only equipped with a wet cloth in his mouth, they often retreat as the air becomes too unbearable a few meters from fumaroles, I already feel a strong irritation 
of my eyes. So we advance towards the lake, a little farther from fumaroles. The fumes are sometimes menacing and we back regularly to the lake. The effect of sulfur released in the state land gas (about 200 degrees Celsius). It cools and turns into a yellowish concretions. A pipeline system reduces the cooling time and improve the performance of fumaroles. In 1976, a huge bubble of sulfur dioxide to raise the lake's surface and erupted suffocating and killing eleven workers from exploitation
We sympathize with a carrier that invites us to try to carry its load of 70kg (aided also by a small tip). Placed on two buckets, we need to squat, put his head under the bar and meet with loading ... rather dangerous, especially since we do not want him put all the load floor. It rises to the top, we decided to follow him. We now want to go around the crater to get a life overlooking the lake and fumaroles. Arriving at the summit, we decided to turn our left. First climb, then the path is fairly flat.
The view is always partially covered, a white veil over the stagnant lake. After about twenty minutes, as we begin a snack, the view is completely unobstructed and clearly we finally see the turquoise water of Lake . A good fifty pictures later and we calling into path. Rotating in the opposite direction clockwise, we stop frequently to take advantage of new angles on the lake and fumaroles.
come weigh sulfur. The balance system seems rather archaic. Once the load hanging from the goddess, a weight is slid onto a rod of iron to determine the weight of the load. An officer noted the weight in a notebook, the weight determines the salary to be received by each holder. Holders are generally 4 roundtrips per day with loads usually weighs 70 to 85 kg. Holders will have roughly double the average wage (5 euros per day), but their extreme working conditions, gives them a life expectancy of 40 years. We set off again for about the last third of the climb. Each holder usually requires that we photograph of cigarettes, sometimes a little money. So I distribute a few cigarettes. Many baskets as sulfur littering the course, probably carriers who try to make the most of the sulfur by delaying harvest weighing. Weather conditions are deteriorating generally around 10, so the carriers desert crater.
It is 6am and we see below the crater , lake and sulfur fumaroles. Below, dozens of porters are working hard to seem collection. The view of the crater is
a little pool, so we decided to go down rather than go around the crater, to note that the descent into the crater is strongly discouraged. Some tourists have died of heart attack, choking or falling. Thibaud, to get ready to travel, even shows me a website or a photographer said he had a bloody nose for 3 days following the descent into the crater. So at the risk of our lives that we begin the descent. The path is a bit steep, especially very narrow, which does not facilitate the crossing with the porters going up and down. No hostility on their part, contrary to what some websites tell, but it should not however forget that we are on the workplace and do everything to avoid the interference. With numerous photo shoots we need a good quarter of an hour to reach the bottom.
On our left, collect the two carriers a fumarole sulfur using an iron bar, they break the sulfur and deposit the pieces in their basket. The smell is not as strong as we have seen in other volcanoes, as Sibayak Sumatra. A scarf over the nose, we are moving forward cautiously, waiting for a gust of wind that would send a cloud of sulfur on us. The carriers are themselves completely in the cloud of sulfur. Generally only equipped with a wet cloth in his mouth, they often retreat as the air becomes too unbearable a few meters from fumaroles, I already feel a strong irritation 
of my eyes. So we advance towards the lake, a little farther from fumaroles. The fumes are sometimes menacing and we back regularly to the lake. The effect of sulfur released in the state land gas (about 200 degrees Celsius). It cools and turns into a yellowish concretions. A pipeline system reduces the cooling time and improve the performance of fumaroles. In 1976, a huge bubble of sulfur dioxide to raise the lake's surface and erupted suffocating and killing eleven workers from exploitation We sympathize with a carrier that invites us to try to carry its load of 70kg (aided also by a small tip). Placed on two buckets, we need to squat, put his head under the bar and meet with loading ... rather dangerous, especially since we do not want him put all the load floor. It rises to the top, we decided to follow him. We now want to go around the crater to get a life overlooking the lake and fumaroles. Arriving at the summit, we decided to turn our left. First climb, then the path is fairly flat.
The view is always partially covered, a white veil over the stagnant lake. After about twenty minutes, as we begin a snack, the view is completely unobstructed and clearly we finally see the turquoise water of Lake . A good fifty pictures later and we calling into path. Rotating in the opposite direction clockwise, we stop frequently to take advantage of new angles on the lake and fumaroles. 
One hour after beginning the tour of the crater, we find ourselves stuck, ravine straight and a large slope on the right which does not seem to easily lead us to the other side . The crater map (thank you Wikipedia) seems to confirm that it is not possible to make the full turn.
We begin, however, the descent. My shoes lacking grip, I spend more time on the buttocks on my two legs. This pathway does not seem very accessible. Through a forest on the left 
we would be joining one of the peaks but the rise could quickly turn into climbing. With two biscuits and 50cl of water, we think it more prudent to turn back. The key is met. Besides, it is 10am and the clouds are already beginning to cover the crater. The sulfur is even starting to fill much of the basin. Fortunately, we were no longer below. We join the South East side of the crater or we pause to photograph the porters back. We meet a group of Indonesian tourists rather amused by Thibaud which unfortunately is hurtling down to the filter from the Reflex on ten meters. We then return to the weighing. It buys water and cookies and watch the carriers succeed in the balance. They all have the same technique: shrug of the shoulders for hanging baskets esse, tapping on the bar to be in balance and weight adjustment. Seeking to capture SSPE, we get a load of us seem to exceed 85kg. The record of the day: 106kg.
Descent Pos Paltuding then, desiring to know the fate of sulfur blocks.
tourons We left the houses. On the trail, many seeds yellowish litter the ground, we are on track. After 10 short minutes, we see a hangar . It fits. Our presence seems not to disturb them, we begin our study of the site. At the back of the hangar, sulfur is shoveled onto a platform. Fires lit under the platform heat a liquid in which the sulfur is melted. The liquid is then collected orangeâtre in a container and then poured on the tile. Once dry, the plates are then broken and bagged. Sulfur is used primarily for the manufacture of matches, the vulcanization of tires and pharmaceutical industries. We return to
Pos Paltuding and we ask to Warung (canteen) for a third nasi goreng-provided meals. It is now half past twelve and we hope we get to the waterfall (Air Terajun). The PHKA is empty. An old man proposes to arrange two motorcycles but we do not understand where we want to go. We then approached by the group of Indonesians encountered previously. They intend to take us by car. They are already 7 in a minivan but shake at 4 back leaving us a more comfortable that despite our insistence on being treated with less respect. They take us first to a mini-waterfall that seems to come from the green acid lake.
We then went to the waterfall Air Terajung . The flow is impressive
but scenically, we saw the most beautiful waterfalls in the region, including that of Sipiso-piso Sumatra. We do a foot bath in the hot springs next to the waterfall. The waterfall and hot springs seem to cost Rp 2.000 per person. Indonesians are paying for us. We plan was to return to Sempol bémo drives to take the next morning to Bondowoso but they intend to take us for tonight Bondowoso. We face a huge uphill. So the car goes to empty and we go on foot. We arrive at a village where everyone runs to get us to take pictures. This is a village where most residents work in coffee plantations government.
so the car is taken to rebuild the road to Bondowoso extremely bad.
Our driver excels at avoiding potholes and we join the city in an hour and a half. We stop for dinner at a restaurant very to eat local meat balls ( Bakso ) with rice wrapped in banana leaf (Lontong). Thibaud and I had decided to invite all to thank them for this afternoon but we managed to pay for it without noticing a priori middle class or higher, the couple and their Indonesian friends we have delivered all'm paid to destination. They put us down even in a hotel and waiting to see if we take the room or whether we 
deposited elsewhere. The room (50,000 Rp) is rather spartan. It takes her heartfelt thanks and our generous sponsors. After a shower with a tub of cold water, we go visit the city center.
We fall on the children's party. Maybe it is every Saturday the same thing, is it still all young and very young Bondowoso seem to be on a place with rides and games. All premises are watching. Few Caucasians have to spend the night here. Resisting the urge to ride by train, there is a small shop for a coffee and return to the hotel.
Sunday, April 12
- Bondowoso trip - Surabaya
- Lapindo, Danau
Lumpur - Surabaya-Singapore flight
Sunrise 5am. We take a becak (bicycle with a seat for the passenger) to
go to the bus station. It is 5:50 am, just in time to take the bus to Surabaya (24,000 Rp). The bus is pretty empty at the start so we can make ourselves comfortable. It fills up very quickly by cons at each stop. Of the 5 o'clock bus, I slept 4, which leaves me just enough time to enjoy the endless brush vendors, singers, beggars, .. It takes place at Lapindo to go back to the geyser. We stop
First in a warung for lunch. No mid-goreng this time but a plate of pasta snapshot. It is now time to go around the Danau Lumpur, which means lake of mud.
It takes 2 ojek. Our drivers have lost their homes in the disaster. They lead us first to wooden scaffolds that serve as point of view. We see the mosque almost completely stuck in the woods. Then we end up around the lake before drink a glass with our drivers and their friends. We then take a taxi to the airport (110,000 Rp) where we fulfill the airport tax (150,000 Rp per person) rentrons et sur Singapour.
Principales depenses (pour 2 personnes)
- taxis Surabaya - Bondowoso: 550.000 USD
- Bemo Bondowoso - Sempol: 250,000 USD
- Arabica Guesthouse (Sempol): 125.000 USD
- Ojeks Sempol Palruding-Pos: 70 000 USD
- Hotel Slamet (Bondowoso): 50,000 USD
- Bus Bondowoso - Surabaya: 48.000 USD
- Ojeks Lapindo: 100,000 USD
- Taxi Lapindo - Aeroport Surabaya: 110.000 USD
- Taxe Aeroport Internationale Surabaya: 300.000 USD
Budget (pour 2 personnes pour 3 jours, hors billets d'Avion):
- Alimentation: 350.000 USD
- Transportation: 1,300,000 Rp
- Fees and Tips: 250.000 Rp
- Housing: Rp 200.000
Total: Rp 2.1 million
we would be joining one of the peaks but the rise could quickly turn into climbing. With two biscuits and 50cl of water, we think it more prudent to turn back. The key is met. Besides, it is 10am and the clouds are already beginning to cover the crater. The sulfur is even starting to fill much of the basin. Fortunately, we were no longer below. We join the South East side of the crater or we pause to photograph the porters back. We meet a group of Indonesian tourists rather amused by Thibaud which unfortunately is hurtling down to the filter from the Reflex on ten meters. We then return to the weighing. It buys water and cookies and watch the carriers succeed in the balance. They all have the same technique: shrug of the shoulders for hanging baskets esse, tapping on the bar to be in balance and weight adjustment. Seeking to capture SSPE, we get a load of us seem to exceed 85kg. The record of the day: 106kg. Descent Pos Paltuding then, desiring to know the fate of sulfur blocks.
tourons We left the houses. On the trail, many seeds yellowish litter the ground, we are on track. After 10 short minutes, we see a hangar . It fits. Our presence seems not to disturb them, we begin our study of the site. At the back of the hangar, sulfur is shoveled onto a platform. Fires lit under the platform heat a liquid in which the sulfur is melted. The liquid is then collected orangeâtre in a container and then poured on the tile. Once dry, the plates are then broken and bagged. Sulfur is used primarily for the manufacture of matches, the vulcanization of tires and pharmaceutical industries. We return to Pos Paltuding and we ask to Warung (canteen) for a third nasi goreng-provided meals. It is now half past twelve and we hope we get to the waterfall (Air Terajun). The PHKA is empty. An old man proposes to arrange two motorcycles but we do not understand where we want to go. We then approached by the group of Indonesians encountered previously. They intend to take us by car. They are already 7 in a minivan but shake at 4 back leaving us a more comfortable that despite our insistence on being treated with less respect. They take us first to a mini-waterfall that seems to come from the green acid lake.
We then went to the waterfall Air Terajung . The flow is impressive
but scenically, we saw the most beautiful waterfalls in the region, including that of Sipiso-piso Sumatra. We do a foot bath in the hot springs next to the waterfall. The waterfall and hot springs seem to cost Rp 2.000 per person. Indonesians are paying for us. We plan was to return to Sempol bémo drives to take the next morning to Bondowoso but they intend to take us for tonight Bondowoso. We face a huge uphill. So the car goes to empty and we go on foot. We arrive at a village where everyone runs to get us to take pictures. This is a village where most residents work in coffee plantations government. so the car is taken to rebuild the road to Bondowoso extremely bad.
Our driver excels at avoiding potholes and we join the city in an hour and a half. We stop for dinner at a restaurant very to eat local meat balls ( Bakso ) with rice wrapped in banana leaf (Lontong). Thibaud and I had decided to invite all to thank them for this afternoon but we managed to pay for it without noticing a priori middle class or higher, the couple and their Indonesian friends we have delivered all'm paid to destination. They put us down even in a hotel and waiting to see if we take the room or whether we 
deposited elsewhere. The room (50,000 Rp) is rather spartan. It takes her heartfelt thanks and our generous sponsors. After a shower with a tub of cold water, we go visit the city center. We fall on the children's party. Maybe it is every Saturday the same thing, is it still all young and very young Bondowoso seem to be on a place with rides and games. All premises are watching. Few Caucasians have to spend the night here. Resisting the urge to ride by train, there is a small shop for a coffee and return to the hotel.
Sunday, April 12
- Bondowoso trip - Surabaya
- Lapindo, Danau
Lumpur - Surabaya-Singapore flight
Sunrise 5am. We take a becak (bicycle with a seat for the passenger) to
go to the bus station. It is 5:50 am, just in time to take the bus to Surabaya (24,000 Rp). The bus is pretty empty at the start so we can make ourselves comfortable. It fills up very quickly by cons at each stop. Of the 5 o'clock bus, I slept 4, which leaves me just enough time to enjoy the endless brush vendors, singers, beggars, .. It takes place at Lapindo to go back to the geyser. We stop First in a warung for lunch. No mid-goreng this time but a plate of pasta snapshot. It is now time to go around the Danau Lumpur, which means lake of mud.
It takes 2 ojek. Our drivers have lost their homes in the disaster. They lead us first to wooden scaffolds that serve as point of view. We see the mosque almost completely stuck in the woods. Then we end up around the lake before drink a glass with our drivers and their friends. We then take a taxi to the airport (110,000 Rp) where we fulfill the airport tax (150,000 Rp per person) rentrons et sur Singapour. Principales depenses (pour 2 personnes)
- taxis Surabaya - Bondowoso: 550.000 USD
- Bemo Bondowoso - Sempol: 250,000 USD
- Arabica Guesthouse (Sempol): 125.000 USD
- Ojeks Sempol Palruding-Pos: 70 000 USD
- Hotel Slamet (Bondowoso): 50,000 USD
- Bus Bondowoso - Surabaya: 48.000 USD
- Ojeks Lapindo: 100,000 USD
- Taxi Lapindo - Aeroport Surabaya: 110.000 USD
- Taxe Aeroport Internationale Surabaya: 300.000 USD
Budget (pour 2 personnes pour 3 jours, hors billets d'Avion):
- Alimentation: 350.000 USD
- Transportation: 1,300,000 Rp
- Fees and Tips: 250.000 Rp
- Housing: Rp 200.000
Total: Rp 2.1 million
