Saturday, November 17, 2007

Sayings With The Word Baby In It

Lombok, climbing Mount Rinjani in

Island 80 km ² for 2 million people, Lombok offers a wide variety of landscapes: mountains, beaches, rice paddies, fields of tobacco .. I did however
past four days. The purpose of this trip is the ascent Mount Rinjani, the second highest peak in Indonesia. Peaking at 3726m, Mount Rinjani is the highest peak of Lombok. This volcano is extinct and its caldera is covered by a lake, Danau Segara, which means son of the sea in Bhasa Indonesia, and a new volcano, Gunung Bahru, whose red traces its last eruption in 2004 are still visible.

After three days of intense trekking, the last day we took in Senggigi, the main area of Lombok Resorts.

I begin by saying that the ascent of Rinjani is THE ideal health course:
- Day 1: clean up -> footwork
and glutes - Day 2: alternating ascents and descents -> program complete muscular
- Day 3: pure descent -> Working

knees But that's not all, because it is:
- exercise of agility jumps from rock to rock and pass above the empty tree roots.
- Fighting the fear of heights by walking at 3am on a crest of a meter wide with winds.
- Work on the mind with a final climb that never ends, so it's been 2 hours to walk in the ashes and you draw back more than you moving forward.

short .. The climb is

follows:


- from Sembalun (1000m)
- climb to base camp (2700m)
- climb to the crater (3726m)
- down to the lake (1965m)
- climb up Palawangan 1 (2641m)
- down to Senaru (600m)




Link to photo album -> here

Day 1 (Wednesday, 7 November 2007)

Program:
- Singapore-Mattaram
- Airport Mattaram - Sembalun Lawang


2 ½ days after returning from Sumatra, I'm about to leave for Lombok. A direct flight from Singapore-Mattaram is provided by Silkair, but the return is either Saturday or Monday, which does not suit us pas.La solution we have chosen is a flight from Singapore-Surbaya Silkair, followed by 3h waiting to fly to Surabaya Surabaya-Mattaram insured by Lion Air.
3:40 p.m. departure from Changi Airport. After a 2 hour flight, we arrive at an airport that I know for me being arrested twice already, once for the travel-Surbaya Yogyakarta and another time for the ascent Semeru volcano. The international terminal and domestic terminal being adjacent, we walk to the domestic terminal you see where our flight. Small television screens announce all flights late, all except ours, as long as it lasts. After a small snack, we check in, pay the 30,000 Rp domestic airport tax per person and we enter the departure lounge. All eyes turn to us, we are the only whites. No autograph as Sumatra this time, too bad I had a taste.
is 21h, the plane was to leave at 20.30 ... information taken from the window .. 1 hour late. Arrives 9:30 p.m. .. the speakers will sound, people sigh ... 2 hours late. Before initially arrived around 1am to Sembalun Lawang, I had bothered to book a guesthouse, and the three days of trekking to Mount Rinjani. Call the guesthouse Pondok Sembalun .. "If we arrive at 3am finally, here is a problem? yes? bah good agreement with Mattaram sleeping. " Sembalun Lawang, starting point of the climb is at 2:30-3hrs drive from Mattaram, Mr Diralam, manager of the guesthouse and manager of the cooperative Sembalun seems little pleased to welcome us in the middle of the night .. can be understood. We therefore suggest Mattaram sleep and take a cab at 5am for Sembalun.
Not knowing if it is easy to grab a taxi at 4.30am, with Greg we list the options:
- take a taxi when we arrive and we will see on site Sembalun at 3am. At worst we sleep outside, but at least we are on site. At worst it is also eaten by the dogs .. but hey it is there.
- sleeping at the airport. There are certainly more likely to grab a taxi at night there.
- Take a guesthouse and Sort this out with the managers they call for a taxi at night.
The weekend begins well .. But being good-both, is taken here with a smile. The flight left
well with the previously announced delay of 2 hours. 1 hour flight and we arrived in Mattaram.


Day 2 (Thursday, 8 November 2007)

Program:
- Mattaram trip - Sembalun
- Sembalun - Base camp of Mount Rinjani.


arrived at half past midnight (Lombok and Java are not on the same time zone), everybody piled around the single mats (almost) running of the airport that seems to be 70 square meters to break everything . 4-5 trolleys pass before we finally have our bags. On leaving the airport, we find the taxi counter which we explain our situation. We have found the only airport staff speaking English, employees tell us they can not afford to sleep in the airport but a taxi can take us in a cheap hotel near the airport and a taxi to pick us up at 4:30. Rp 27.000 paying at the counter, a taxi takes us to the Air Lingga. After we have announced the complete hotel, we finally found an "executive" room with twin beds for 70,000 Rp slats of wood .. who cares it is almost 2am and we must take a taxi in 2:30. The managers, kind, take us one thing every 5 minutes, towels (who cares it will not wash), fan .. ok here it is.
4:30 am, a taxi actually happens in the hotel courtyard. Same driver that led us here .. Sembalun direction. Did he also slept 2 hours last night? we'd rather not know. The roads are deserted, few chances to take a truck, you can rest easy. 2:30 later, the driver wakes up, it is Sembalun but does not know where the Pondok Sembalun. He asks for directions .. Mr Dilaram .. we stumbled upon the manager of the guesthouse. He gets into the car and taken to another guesthouse, the Losmen Sibayak. You pay the driver Rp 350.000 Rp 20.000 + tip for the night we just him pass. It's 7am, time to eat breakfast: coffee and banana pancake. The Rinjani in focus, we appreciate that moment of rest. Mr Diralam tells us that everything is ready for us to begin the trek, it is still negotiating the price. Insofar as we began the trek in 30 minutes, the bargaining power is low .. and he knows it. Gently, you negotiate the three-day trek to Rp 2,600,000 for two including two porters and a guide, entrance fees to national parks, water and food, tents and sleeping bags and transportation to Senaru Senggigi.
A boy of 19 years' time, is our guide ... For Asian experience, we know that a local, even if at 10 years and he wears flip-flops, and although it will still be better as you walk in, it does not matter so the fact that is older than him. We start our search all trekking permits. As agreed we do not ask us to pay Rp 20.000 per person, just put us on the register. Some names on the register for today, will be alone?
It then goes on the road. A bar of bamboo on his shoulder, carrying the follow us from afar with bags and provisions. Having that on the back a small bag with extra cameras, passports and money, walking is easier. The guide covers her six bottles of mineral water which we are destined. The beginning of the walk is easy, which is good because the previous night had been restless all start slowly. After an hour of walking, we arrive at POS 1. The guide wants us to expect the carriers to define a point of rendezvous for lunch. We will wait for 1 hour. Meanwhile, two groups of two people to join us. All world will make the climb in 3 days. Following the path climbs a bit more than the last. The landscapes look a bit like a African Savanna, although my experience in Africa is limited to club med Aggad and Tunis, which I should, it may not be sufficient to judge. According to the guide, it appears that holders complain of the weight of their load. Our bags are not heavy yet ... mystery. The meeting point will be a while before the POS 3, under a bridge. We are starting a wood fire, the holders join us. Out of curiosity we tried to carry their load ... this has got to 30kgs. After showing off a little, it lies on the ground, a micro-nap required. The premises are agitated around us. Unpacking loading, we see an electric stove and a ton of food, they will be very caring for 3 days. It brings us tea while others cut carrots, tomatoes, green beans, .. the result, a very good noodle soup with vegetables.
It starts again, leaving the store carrying all the equipment. We pass quickly before the POS3, a light is still on but other groups have deserted the camp. Soon, we arrive at three large hills. The first hill is quite long and quite difficult, the second is shorter and a little easier. For the third cons is really hard, very steep. Fortunately, the reward for all this effort is there. Arrived on a flat peak, the Rinjani stands to our left, while a Lake comes to our right. The weather was cloudy, we see the Rinjani intermittently and we will wait a bit to have the lake view.
After 5 minutes of exposure, and after considering how the porters arrive to climb those hills with their load, we walk another 10-15 minutes before finally arriving at base camp . Flat expanse of gravel, that is the base camp. The tent is already planted two Australians, the fire burning .. ours is on its way. It's cold. We wait impatiently carriers, our polar and our gloves are kept in bags. The lake is revealed yet, but we still see the glow of sunset . Just came the porters bring to the kitchen: chicken wing, fried shrimp and nasi goreng. He is 20h, time to regain strength. The alarm clock is set at 2.15. Given our strong performance of the day, the guide believes that we are going to 3am to climb to the summit, and should therefore leave at 2h30 in order to admire the sunrise, which usually begins at 5:50 pétante. Despite our explanations on the accumulation of fatigue, our bodies will be tested by the previous night, lost my hamster 7 years ago ... the guide does not change your mind, we will not go forward.


Day 3 (Friday, 9 November 2007)

Program:
- base camp -
crater - Crater - Base Camp
- Base Camp -
lake - Lake - 1 Palawangan


Sunrise 2:15 quail here ... but we expected worse. Armed with my combination they killed Kenny South Park, ie: gloves, hats, socks, mountain fleece jacket and warm with hood over head, I had much better prepared for the ascent Semeru. Having slept wonderfully warm at night in T-shirt so the sleeping bag, our bodies are full of warmth, which certainly helps us to endure the cold of the night. At 3am, after drinking tea and toast with cheese heated fire, we begin the climb. It allows carriers and business, taking only our small extra bag.
The first forty minutes are already difficult. The soil is sandy and course requires large strides. Then the peak of the volcano starts rather easily, but the elevation gradually increases. The rise quickly becomes difficult, the soil becomes more and more ashen and the slope is increasingly fierce. The end is just terrible. Walking in the light of torches on a crest of a meter wide, the gusting wind, we try to walk like a duck to reduce as far as possible that we are slipping backwards. The ash give way under our feet. Each curve shows a peak that always seems so far. Morale in socks, I let Greg go before I try the technique for the monkey in helping me arms and legs ... without much success. Successive breaks. Then I'm back on my two legs and resumed walking duck. The red glow appear ... there is not still up there. 10 minutes later we finally arrive at the top. We will finally took 3:15 to reach the top.
The sun is already up, but little we matter. Sunrise does not seem extraordinary because the place where he does not get up pretty sight. We displayed this time without a cloud, as opposed to the sunrise, the lake and above the volcano Gunung Bahru, offers a breathtaking view .



There are even the shadow of Mount Rinjani , reflecting off the lake and the outline of the caldera . This is the lake that captivate the most objective of our cameras, the crater of this extinct volcano not being him not very scenic. Arrived 10 minutes at the summit, we took the cold already forced inactivity. After 20 minutes up there, we therefore decided to restart. This peak which proved so to ure to rise, turns out to be a treat to go down. Surfing on the sand, we descend at high speed while keeping in mind that we are framed by a cliff on the left and right. We make frequent stops for photos, brightness increased gradually revealing more and more the beauty the volcano Gunung Bahru, all black ash with drawn red and hardened lava which has advanced on the lake in 2004, greatly reducing the volume of water. The day was rather cloudy and having made this journey by night, this is the first time we see this landscape as well.



We will have 1:30 to descend to base camp. Just arrived, and as tradition dictates, the holders have prepared banana pancake. As is the tradition as a armed with a dozen monkeys stands ready to steal the banana pancake the first tourist unwise. This was the careless tourist tourist Dutch. Sitting halfway into his tent, a dozen yards from apes, he began to search his bag holding your plate in one hand. I start filming so the result was predictable. Launched at full speed, the monkey walked the few yards, tapped the base for all of these forces, grabbed the pancake flight and took to their heels, leaving the tourists completely stunned because that just happened. Having finished my banana pancakes, banana in hand, I approached the small ridge to enjoy the lake view. Approaching a monkey, I threw small pebbles to keep it at bay. Continuing to advance, it was 3 feet away from me when he began to show its teeth. Unwilling to fight with a monkey for a banana, I gave him my property and returned near the camp.
It is now 8am. Greg and I decree that a nap is needed. 2:30 more later, the guide we wake up, it's time to get going to the lake. Apart from our tent, the camp is deserted, others do not nap and left just after the pancake ...
down until 3am lake, not very hard but some passages a little slippery. Arrived at the lake, the sky is clear and beautiful view. We find other groups who preferred to nap by the lake and test the hot springs nearby, 10 minutes below. It is time for us to work the guide: it indeed wants to spend the night Palawangan 1 or lake view, Mount Rinjani and the volcano Gunung Bahru is magnificent. The problem is that water and wood are not readily available and so the guide would prefer to camp a little further on, POS 3. POS 3 is located in the forest and there is no view ... To force the decision, it promises to take care of ourselves and water timber .. to this determination, accepts.
is 15h when we finish lunch of pasta and vegetables. The Dutch couple decides to spend the night at the lake and walk 6am the following day. As promised, we instruct our bags two bottles of spring water collected near the lake by the carriers. We will start again for 2 hours and a half walk. The trail runs along the lake to the point that we need to escalate the rocks twice and walk on a small ledge with the lake below. The rest is in the woods. The climb is tough and rather epic, whether the two bamboo bridges without railings right climbing on the roots of a tree over a crevasse. Arrived at Palawangan 1, we find two Australians. And we will not shit myself. Just arrived, we climb the small hill overlooking the camp. The view of the lake is really beautiful. Like all afternoon, the sky is slightly cloudy. The weather is generally found early morning. Shipment has considerably decreased in two days, the porters arrive shortly after us. The cold comes back and retool it into accordingly. The holders go in search of wood. The sun sets and it's getting really cold. We recover neck in the tent until dinner is served. The hot tea was not long before we get served. We do go out to eat that rice with vegetables, fried shrimp and chicken.



Day 4 (Saturday, 10 November 2007)

Program:
- Palawangan 1 - Senaru
- Senaru - Senggigi


The premises have crestfallen. The wind was blowing so hard that night that their tent and two poor bamboo sticks are not required to windward. They therefore have little sleep. As agreed, we see the sunrise before we deliver way to Senaru. The brightness is low, it is hard to take pictures not blurry.
A banana pancake for breakfast and we leave at 6:30. After 5 minutes of ascent is 3h descent ahead. Keeping the Gili Islands in focus, we go down a dirt trail in the middle of the plain during the third term. The remaining two-thirds of the trail are in the forest. After the POS 3, it remains about 2 hours walk to Senaru. Trotting
mostly running sometimes, the difficulties of the day are far behind. Arrived at the POS 3, there sees some monkeys Ebony .
Since it does not rain, we confront the horde of leeches that typically occur, and only between 1 and POS Senaru. You cross a French couple who begins a two-day treking. Senaru parties, they join the lake and return to Senaru. We arrive at the Rinjani Trek Centre point of the trek. The car is already waiting, Mr Diralam who followed our progress through the guide. Porters arrive 15 minutes later, a souvenir photo last and we start off with the driver, a young 24 year old Indonesian, and his girlfriend.
Sleeping in the car, we wake up 2 hours later in Senggigi. Already the first palm trees and white sand of the pages matching the roadside. It'll be good after 2 ½ days of effort. Wishing for a comfortable place, with hot water, without being too luxurious, our choice is the Mascot Cottage. Arriving with our trekking clothes, having taken no shower for three days, we are happy we do not hunt brush stroke. In addition, we are told at the counter that gives us a reduction of 100,000 compared to Rp regular prices, forcing out of season. So here we are renting a room in a bungalow with air conditioning and TV for 250,000 Rp Greg sticks to the first shower. We will then in the restaurant hotel near the beach . The sellers of tee-shirts, necklaces, masseuses ... a dozen local crowd at the gate to the beach. Many whites are walking on the beach, which changes from Sumatra. Senggigi really attracts many tourists. Unwilling to wait about shrimp fritters and rice, spaghetti lunch at the appropriate sees everything.
Then it was time for swimming. Placing one foot on the sand, I noticed a couple of whites trying to be massaged in the sand .. Fred and Lucia .. The French couple met in Sumatra last week. The world is really small. Ending their 2 weeks vacation, they also took a room in the cottage. Is telling the end of the journey in Sumatra, we are 30 minutes in water before napping in the sun. Interrupted every 10 minutes by vendors, get a massage by Gregory (70,000 Rp) while I am walking downtown. Stopped every 5 meters by vendors of necklaces, I found a bit heavy Senggigi, especially those in Indonesia, usually very cheerful, you shoot the eye when you do not buy them ... is the problem of tourist places in general, and Senggigi no exception to rule al. Do
not finding Asmara restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet, we have dinner at Taman filled only with tourists. Being at the seaside, pasta with salmon seems to be a good choice, especially since it is a specialty of the house. 30 minutes later, when we play pool at the Tropicana cafe (25,000 Rp / hour), I make them myself my specialty cake. Making my dinner on the sidewalk leading to the Mascot Cottage, I let Greg go to bed while I wander the streets. Back in the room, I woke up at one o'clock in the morning with the same punishment as before. Spending half the night on the beach not my decision based on my unique experience, I strongly recommend, however, pasta with salmon this restaurant ... now it is said.


Day 5 (Sunday, 11 November 2007)

Program:
- Senguiggi - Airport Mattaram (back to Singapore)

advantage of the breakfast room with: eggs, toast, juice orange and coffee, we take one last sight before us a taxi back to airport Mattaram. Located 20 minutes from the airport, only Rp 27.000 meter. 1h Lion Air for only delay the return ... no problem because we had the margin. Waiting in the airport restaurant where there was free internet. Rp 20.000 of domestic airport tax, followed by Rp 150.000 for the international airport tax now from Surabaya (always from Jakarta Rp 75.000). Back
Singapore with the Christmas holiday in Paris and probably the last exit from Singapore for 2007.


As conclusion:
- November is the start of the rainy season in Indonesia. The weather is generally found between sunrise and 10am. A Palawangan 1, if you're not pressed for time, tried to stay at least until 8am to get a nice view over the lake with enough brightness for beautiful images.
- The climb is really tough. Do not forget warm clothes, a local group has recently died of cold during the ascent.


Budget Estimates for 2 people for 4-5 days:
- transport = Rp 500.000
- guide / gift = Rp 2,700,000
- Housing = 320.000 Rp
- Food and beverages 330.000 = Rp
- Other (billiards, ...) = Rp 25.000

For a total of Rp 3,875,000 (or 290 euros) out airfare. FYI
Silkair theft has cost 307 SGD and the Lion Air flight 140 SGD per person.

Main expenses of living
- Tax Domestic Airport Surabaya Rp = 30,000 / person
- Taxi Mattaram - Sembalun = Rp 350.000
- 3 days Trek Guide = Rp 1,300,000 / person if 2 persons.
- Cottage House Mascots = Rp 250.000 to 350.000
- Dinner Senggigi = 40.000 to 75.000 Rp / Main
- Senggigi Taxi - Airport Mattaram
Rp = 30,000 - Tax = International Airport Rp 75.000 per person

Other info:
- Mr Diralam Tel: 085239561340
=====> LINK TO PHOTO ALBUM -> HERE

Friday, November 16, 2007

Patricia Manterolafotos

Travel Northern Sumatra

Hands up those who, after seeing these two photos, not the sudden urge to go to Sumatra? Well ... I prefer here.

Located in the Indian Ocean, Sumatra is the sixth largest island in the world. Suffice to say that it was impossible in 9 short days to cover the entire 473 km ² the largest island on the west from Indonesia and with 40 million inhabitants.

Our trip has thus concentrated on the North Sumatra: the encounter with the Orang-Utange to Bukit Lawang Lake Toba, to climb the volcano Sibayak Berastagi.

For those who do not have the courage to read, here is the link to the photo album -> here


Day 1: Saturday, October 27, 2007

Program:
- Route Medan Bukit Lawang-
- Center rehabilitation of orangutans and bat cave


Direct flight from Singapore to Medan by Silkair (1:20, 285 Singapore dollars). Departure at 7:20 am, we arrived in Medan at 7:40 am with 1 hour time difference. Hidden left, a bar where we buy a visa for Indonesia (10 USD for less than 7 days and 25 USD 8-30 days).
Right out of the airport taxi drivers we dock .. Rp 50.000 to reach the bus station Pinang Baris, the same price as taxis. We do that through Medan, we will return to return, but what we see does not encourage us to spend more than half a day. After a 30 minute drive, we arrive at the station-Pinang Baris. The driver beckoned us, the bus departs, it is the Bukit Lawang to .. 2 minutes too late. We continue to walk straight into the station, other buses are parked. It challenges us: "Bukit Lawang? "Yes, this bus leaves in 10 minutes. We get on the bus, we are four. One of two rooms coming towards us, he speaks French. He tells us that the bus will stop in 15 minutes too long. Actually, 150 meters after the station, the bus station. The bus slowly filled space. 4 sellers brioche, 8 water vendors, fruit sellers 2 and 1 guitarist later, 1h, the bus finally starts. The 3h-3h30 travel are a series of stops where people get off and other rise. There are more people going up, however, the end of the trip is done so with a class of schoolchildren to half standing and sitting on the roof. An explosion and a geyser of gas, the bus burst. Everyone down 15 minutes later and here we are again on the road. Over the journey's end nears, our local French talks. It is a guide. We also monitors the output of the bus and accompany us in bémo drives in the center of Bukit Lawang (5000 Rp). Accompanied by our new friend, Shiloh, we put our luggage in the guesthouse Wisma Leuser Sibayak (30,000 Rp room) under the gaze of some thirty Indonesians amused to see two white settle among them. We return to the terrace of the guesthouse for a drink, Shiloh returns with its official map guide, but especially with a book of reviews of customers for sale its merits in French, German, Dutch, .... The price seems a bit high (Rp 625.000 for 2 or 25 euros per person) for 1 day trek in the jungle. One hesitates, but it seems important to have a good guide to see the orangutans up close. The question of
guide being settled, we have little time for lunch. There is indeed a rehabilitation center for orangutans which feeds 2 times a day, once from 8.30 to 9.30, the second time from 15h to 16h. To get there from the guesthouse, cross the wooden bridge across the river and walk along the left and go straight. 10 minutes later, there's a passage with white gravel brings up boat whose rangers use to cross this river. A French couple, Lucy and Fred, to join us. Crossing the river is short but epic, the current is strong so the rangers are using a pulley system to move the boat horizontally.
No bridge here, to prevent the orangutans come to town. The purpose of this center, created in 1973, is indeed to provide a brief power to orangutans that have been found to force them to seek their own alternative sources of food in the jungle. There remain 25 specimens in semi-liberty against almost 300 in the 90s.
Once the entry fee paid (20,000 Rp / person), and 7 minutes walk, we are at the refueling point. Quickly 1 orangutan happens. He received his ration of bananas and milk. It is quickly followed by 3-4 other colleagues. The trees bend around us. Their way a little buggers to move from tree tree is simply amazing to watch. A short forty minutes later we leave. It seems we're lucky, the day before, as can often happen, no orangutan had come.
back to the guesthouse, the manager says he was wrong in the book and the guesthouse is filled with Indonesians. It gives us Rp 10.000 in compensation and accompany us to a guesthouse just steps from the: Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah. The contrast is striking: that the western terraces of the rooms. The price is the same, we take a room there.
It is time for us to visit the cave with bats (bat cellar), the night begins to fall slightly. From the Eco Lodge is 20-30 minutes walk. Armed with a flashlight, we are in a rubber operation in which they harvest the sap of trees by cutting the bark of a circular. Arrived at the cave, nobody at the counter, so we do not pay the entry of 5000 ... damn Rp. You push open the wooden door and down the trail. Loud cawing accompany our journey. After 10 minutes of walking on rocks, here we are at the entrance of the cave. We are venturing a few tens of meters, ground is slippery and it starts to get dark. It turns back while perceiving 2-3 bats. A guide may be necessary because sometimes you crawl and the path is not it seem obvious that if this (guide from 40.000 to 60.000 Rp).
We made an appointment for the couple of french dinner at Garden In, near the rehab center. That's 25 good minutes walk from home. Little choice of dishes, the banana shake is like nothing we change location. Coming back a little on our feet, we stopped at a bar-restaurant, semur chicken (chicken with ginger and coconut rice) is good. He is 21h, the time to walk 25 minutes again in the rain begins to fall and in the light of the flashlight.


Day 2: Sunday, October 28, 2007

Program:
- Trekking in Gunung Leuser Park
- Attempt to see Rafflesia.


Surveys at 6:45 am, we return to our first guesthouse for breakfast. The service is long, as everywhere in Indonesia, but the food is good. Coffee and banana pancakes, Shiloh joins us. Starting at 7:45 for the jungles of Gunung Leuser Park. Shiloh is very stalled at fauna and flora: Desert who do not live more than 41 days of the 2000 orangutans and 100 tigers living here, through all varieties of plants, walking is very instructive. For example, here is a cacao. He lived in Switzerland for 7 years, he mastered very good French. After 15 minutes, we meet our first orang-utan. Silo gave him some bananas. After 20 minutes of photo session, we will start again. We will see a total of ten monkeys, including monkeys Thomas' leaf and will be seen furtively toucans. The record is more positive than with this guide, a very good day. Only "fear of the day, meeting with Mina, who built his reputation as the most aggressive female biting forty four guides and tourists. Giving all the fruit we had in our possession, we took advantage of the feast to take to their heels.
Leeches are rare, one to count on the tibia guide. The lunch is included in the package: nasi goreng, fried shrimp, bananas, pineapple and mandarin .
We then opted for a return tubing (down the river on a tire), but we learn that Rafflesia flowers are just a few miles from here. We decide to return to the village for 15h to rent bikes. Rp 250.000 for 2 drivers and their bikes, activities are expensive to Bukit Lawang.
After 20 minutes stony, we arrive in a small village. A resident will guide us, and we're pushing us to 5 in the jungle. The beginning is difficult, a large muddy slope, hard not to break your face. After 20 minutes walk, crossing two rivers and barefoot enjambage of 113 logs, I see the premises before me who watch all their legs. "Mosquitoes? "I ask them," No, leeches " they say. And shit .. I look at my legs in my lap: a leech attached to my shin and two others climb onto the shoe. Leeches have been one of my concerns before the start, I planned the salt of the bomb and anti-mosquito patches smelling lemongrass. All this is in my backpack, I parry with the most urgent. I pull the leech by the tail .. 1 time, 2 times, it finally comes, turns and clings to my thumb .. the bitch. One flick later and I where it comes from referrals. No traces of blood, she had not yet bitten. Then I grab the bomb repellent I empty 1 / 3 on the remaining two assailants who beat a retreat. What do we do? one way to not allow them time to get on the shoes. And now five morons who jump over the logs, slalom between trees at light speed ... well up to the Rafflesia Rafflesia remains. Two large black pieces on the ground, Rafflesia have already faded. For how long? Did they take along the right place? who cares now. We're out of breath, everyone is fighting with dozens of leeches who gather around us. Streaks of blood flow in the legs our drivers. One ask me "have a break now or later?" I think he must have seen the thunder in my eyes, born of misunderstanding of such a question while I'm on the verge of making me take two pints of blood to my knowledge. We will be starting out in the other direction, would run more beautiful. The bomb in hand, I gaze all the leeches that cling to my shoes. Walking on their mouths, hundreds of cones stand on our feet. Lacking both feet down, there being more beautiful for 15 minutes, the time to find the River. After crossing the river, we remove the shoes, pants and look for the slightest leech remaining. One on my arm, into the shoes of Thibaud. The premises continue to bleed, no bites for me and Thibaud. Phew ... after 40 minutes of running almost continuously, this is a well deserved rest. We learn that the leeches were very active in the late afternoon, when night approaches. One bite and can take several months. Disappointed not seeing the Rafflesia, we smile afterwards, happy nonetheless to have lived this moment. The drivers take us back to Bukit Lawang.
We find the French couple, it's time to arrange the car to Berastagi.
For lack of tourists, there more direct bus between Berastagi and Bukit Lawang. Must necessarily change buses in Medan is therefore possibly a day lost in transport. A guide, Daniel, we can arrange a car for Rs 550.000 ... low-margin trading, it is ok to Rupees 520.000 to 4 people. The appointment is made for tomorrow 7:30.
Back in the guesthouse, I have to spend 5 minutes I feel every inch of my muscular body (I find that the sentence makes it better if I add the word muscular ...). Dinner at our guesthouse and bed early.


Day 3: Monday, October 29, 2007

Program:
- Route Bukit Lawang - Berastagi
- Visit the village Linga


After a final breakfast at Wisma Leuser Sibayak (the manager is nice), we find the car at 7:30 am in the company of our two Daniel French and guide who wants to travel with us. In speaking with him, we discover that fate also with a Swiss of Banda Aceh, and he hopes to leave with her in Switzerland in two years. By matching all these stories, we understand that many Indonesians are looking for true love with a Westerner to go to Indonesia and claim des jours meilleurs. 4h30 de dépassements suicidaires plus tard, la voiture arrive miraculeusement à Berastagi. Nous prenons deux chambres sur la terrasse au dernier étage de la guesthouse Losmen Sibayak (30,000 Rp). Les chambres sont coquettes, les plats très copieux. Le personnel y est chaleureux et l’ambiance générale très bonne. Une dizaine de jeunes Indonésiens, aspirant à devenir guides touristiques, y travaillent en échange d’une formation et de l’opportunité pour eux de parler avec les touristes.
Il est 14h30, l’heure d’une petite sieste bien méritée. à 15h, nous partons pour le marché de Berastagi, situé sur le même trottoir que la guesthouse short 10 minute walk. Time to take 3-4 photos and the rain begins to fall. From the market, we take a opelet (minivan) for the village of Linga. There will actually two changes Kanbanje, so three in total opelets (2000 Rp / person / opelet). After a 30 minute journey in total, we are in the Karo-Batak village of Linga. From Burma and Thailand, the Batak were first established around Lake Toba. With 6 million heads today, they were known for being a warlike people and canibals.

Hosted by the official guide of the village in a broken French, we have now we pay a donation for the preservation of the houses. This donation is the purchase of local wood crafts, prices ranging from 50.000 to 100.000 Rp, and so here I am owner of a box clove of garlic, which I do not doubt me will be very useful for the rest of my life. The donation also giving us a small tour, our guide with us in some streets of the village. 8-10 Batak traditional houses are still in good condition. The traditional house accommodates 8 families. Single men lived in the house together until they decide to play the banjo at the window their promises. Finally comes the King's house (house of the king for those who do bitent really nothing in English), welcoming 10 families. entry, two handles and a wooden seat, it is the birth place .... Thibaud, reminds me not to support me. Inside, a fire every two families in each fire three stones per family, a symbol of the 3 gods revere the Batak.
guide us then remarked that the shape of Batak houses symbolizes a man kneeling in prayer. The abbreviated cultural lesson is quickly flood. It takes refuge in the unique pub "The village for tea before a (good) football game in Indonesia. Then we catch a opelet. 2 other opelet later and we're back to Berastagi. 10 minutes to the right of the guesthouse, in a building behind the main street Telekom, is an internet cafe with 4 computers. 6 minutes later, the page opens yahoo. 20 minutes later I read an email ... invitations facebook, it will wait a bit. But hey, 1800 Rp for 20 minutes, not expensive.
back to the guesthouse in the rain, the traditional hot chocolate that is required of himself. First Indonesian regime to sprain: macaroni bolognese.

Day 4: Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Program:
- Ascension volcano Sibayak

Breakfast 7:10. The picnic lunch box (tomato-cheese sandwich, boiled egg and banana) is ready. This must be our lunch for climbing the volcano Sibayak. We find by chance the French couple who shares with us, given the cloudy day, to skip the volcano. We try to discourage them, not that we are very close, but with no bus, we will charter a private car, as the price divided by 4 ...
It's gray outside, he has more all night .. they decide to leave, we decided to stay.
8:30 we set off under gray skies of Berastagi. On the sidewalk in front of the guesthouse, we take a oplet Karma green direction Sempai Puncak. Fortunately the guesthouse provides free maps detailing the rise.
Sempai arrived at Puncak, we subscribe our names and nationalities in the register of the tourist .. it must be for their statistics of missing persons. At the guesthouse there is in fact the list of missing persons because "in most cases they were left without guide" .. The first part of
the ascent is to walk on a paved road. It rides well for 20 minutes, then it's a long descent (just enough time to regain strength) and then follows a winding road with a steep climb well, kind of final Alps Tour de France. The sun is the tip of his nose. No problem finding his way, follow the main road and ignore the choice of left, then the choice of right 100 yards away. After the switchbacks, we arrive in a flat area. left two kinds of white stone stairs you can climb a cornice overhanging the road. We can see Gunung Sinabung on the right. Along the ledge you reach a little farther to the top of the stairs. These are not really steps, but we can distinguish different levels. After 20 minutes inside the vegetation, following a walk outdoors. The first sulfur fumaroles finally appear. About fifty yards away and is the crater of the volcano. Covered with a lake, is surrounded by sulfur fumaroles .. simply magical. The sun is definitely back. After having taken less than two hours to get there, you throw the sandbags and mitraillons the volcano at all costs. 150 photos later, the fog appears return, it's time to start looking the way back ... to 90 degrees in the opposite direction to clockwise according Lonely Planet, right so when you come from Sempai Puncak. Great hesitation, there are two. Thibaud tries sign language with two Indonesians aged 12 .. without success. Just then an old man .. is the path that leads to the right. Whoever goes left and passes under the antenna is strongly recommended without a guide.
Small picnic before the volcano's lake . The thunder rumbles. The weather changes quickly in the mountains, it's time to pack up and back down to Berastagi. The first part is tricky, very slippery, with a cliff on the left as possible drop point. Some passages in the buttocks later, after 10 minutes, the early steps. Reached the steps, it starts raining. Fortunately he did not like it was before if not suicide mission. No problem for the second part .. maybe just a risk of twisting the ankle or explode head on a rock, but most fall into the void. Thibaud and I start running, singing the music of Fort Boyard. Jumping from rock to rock, above the tree trunks, sometimes below .. steps are funny too. It's as if they had forgotten to pour concrete inside. So we end up walking on edges of 7 cm steps filled with water .. rather dangerous. Yet we must cross a rather dense vegetation to reach the last part: a road of mud. Cutting through fields of bamboo, I let Thibaud redo the color of her white pants. Then this is the issue: the power station Petronas .. or steel tubes surrounded by mountains.
It is still raining and so we take refuge in the only coffee left the station. The manager, his two daughters and four cats are adorable. Snack. We then descend down to 300 meters heading into the first hot spring. Rp 2,000 per person. Small swimsuit and we're all alone in one of two pools overlooking the Sibayak.
Fully relaxed, we descend to 200 meters before finding a bar with a opelet front. "Berastagi?" "Yes, Berastagi!" Yes, proved to be the only word that ten people have mastered, you sit waiting for the departure. 10 .. and 15 .. then 30 minutes pass, no movement. A second opelet happens, we try take by storm. We shouted something in Indonesian .. it should now say wait! They remove the seats and there are opelet 8 large baskets of tomatoes. We say logically that opelet is now empty for us, and maybe not. The opelet being full, we installed a wooden bench by 30 centimeters at the end of the door. So here we sit in the car but with the knees outside the car ... the return on Berastagi looks sporty. Likely to finish paraplegic at every turn and every passing, we finally arrive at Berastagi after 25-30 minutes. The driver We then asked Rp 3,500 per person, which is expensive relative to the square centimeter that we occupied .. but hey, glad you'll trip.
Back in the guesthouse, it is time to organize the next day's journey to Lake Toba. Rp 450,000, we pass the price to Rp 370.000 The price is high but we have no choice. It also agrees to take with us two students who wish to speak English with us. Thib while taking a shower, I sit at a table. 6 students arrive and that the interrogation begins: origin, occupation, hobbies, love, ... you name it. They were 16-17 years and taught 3 languages: English, French and Japanese.



Day 5: October 31, 2007 Wednesday as

Program:
- Travel Berastagi - Prapat
- Visit the village Donka
- visit the waterfall at Sipisopiso of Tongging

- Visit the Royal Palace
- Boat crossing Prapat - Tuk Tuk


Breakfast at 7:30 and regulation of the addition (Rp 617.000 including half of the transport that we had not yet set). Departure by car with driver and two students of 16 and 17 years: Yolanda and Sushi. Their names do not suggest, but they are very cute, but young ... The trip to Lake Toba included all visits that are desired.
After a 30 minute drive, we stop at the village of Karo-Batak Donka, home to eight families. Same houses in the village of Linga, fewer but better. A donation of 20,000 Rp later and here we are again way. We stop next to the waterfall Sipisopiso of Tongging. The weather is sunny as ever, what gratifies us a beautiful rainbow at the foot of the 120m high waterfall.

The last stop will be the King's palace (royal palace), consists of a long Batak house or the king lived there diwaine his wives, and other smaller houses for the rappproché custody.


We finally arrive at Lake Toba after almost 3 hours away. A few stops on the picture side of the road and we arrived in Prapat. We say goodbye to our companions in the boat and jump (7,000 Rp per person) which is in port, ignoring the horde of touts that lurk in the port direction ... Tuk-Tuk on the island of Samosir in the middle of Lake Toba.
We descend the ship at the first stop on the left of the Carolina Hotel. 7 minutes' walk later and we arrived in the Merlyn Guesthouse . The welcome is warm, a young girl sleeping on a sofa . Was awakened. Her parents show us they have four houses Batak in the garden. Rp 25.000 per night for the house, the deal is concluded.
After a hearty breakfast, and according to the gray weather, it's time to make the first real nap stay. At 17h, a stroll through the streets of Tuk-Tuk confirms our first impression is a dead city. The streets are empty, restaurants are empty, some buildings are derelict ... back to guethouse, there is an opportunity to see that the Internet connection is much faster than Berastagi. It's not there yet, but we can not expect better from a 56k modem in the depths of Indonesia.
We'll dine at a pizzeria just left of the guesthouse. The French couple passing by joined us for dinner. There is no shortage of them that they have missed the ascent of their lives .. good at it can be a bit exaggerated .. A very good pizza (37,000 Rp) and the first banana shake worthy of the name, and it is already 10:30 p.m. ..


Day 6: Thursday, November 1, 2007

Program:
- Moped on the west coast of Samosir to the Hot Springs

Sunrise 7:30 am, the sky is overcast but not raining not. So much the better because today is the big day! I have no other choice but to learn to make the Asian scooter is apparently a mix between a 125 and a moped. Rp 70.000 per day (full fuel included).
Thib gives me the choice of weapons. I choose moped with seat Fear Factor a symbol for this premiere. Small technical explanations on the clutch / clutch with the left pedal, the brake handle right and right pedal, turn signals ... and it's off. Slight acceleration from the left grip, I advance of 2 meters. Thomas is well, continues to train yourself ... 3-4 acceleration / brake later and it's off. Robyn, the brother of the owner, keeps telling me that the scooter is not insured .. it's good I'm put in trust.
Few reassured, having to do the first mile 10km / h. Then 30 km / h seems more appropriate. Chickens, dogs and children crossing from everywhere, will have to stay on alert. Program: 100 km to the hot springs in southern Samosir. We stop first at the Batak Museum. We're just two, however, they propose to attend a dance performance Batak (130,000 Rp / pers). Batak beliefs and traditions are explained through a series of 9-10 dances around a bull that the program we announced as sacrificed during the ceremony and the meat would be distributed to spectators. Being two, they had to say it would never end the whole bull .. During the show, I'm getting bitten by a mosquito striped white and black, which, according to Wikipedia, is a carrier in Asia not less than 30 diseases, including malaria, .. nice mosquito.
The sun is back, the opportunity to make a hundred photos of Lake Toba. On the right side of the road we visit the small villages where they weave scarves they wear on their shoulders during the ceremony. You can also visit the rocks or they decapitated the worst fighter of them and ate with garlic and chili .. (Perhaps solution was applied against unemployment in France ...). Next we come to Hot Springs that really are not that great. We make the path in reverse and give the bikes to 18h, as requested, with a little less than half full. No accidents for those first 100 miles.
At dinner, fish with barbecue sauce Batak, the house specialty. It's a treat. We invite to our table a Dutchman who spends six months a year in Asia for 7 years. It is even to Lake Toba for 1 month ... He advises us to our next excursion: doing the same route today but continue to Tele, which he believes remains his greatest experience of your stay.


Day 7: Friday, November 2, 2007

Program:
- Moped on the west coast of Samosir Tele up and visit Tomok

Thib Drawing from his sleep at 6:30 in spite of myself We're ready to climb at 8am on our steel horses. Only stopping every 10 minutes to take photos, we draw to the hot springs. 1h10 road and here we are at the crossroads. You turn right just as hot springs, but then turn left instead of going straight.
Road is a bit rocky but very practical. The lake view is gorgeous, it makes a beautiful sun, is baked in the sun .. A winding road leads to a large white tower on the left. The scenery is really beautiful, certainly the finest we've seen in Sumatra. At 20 meters from the tower, we take a small dirt road that descends to the bottom, on the advice of our Dutch. The descent is steep, no need to put the gas is let off the brake using enough. Back at the intersection of Hot Springs, 45 minutes until we redo a guesthouse a few miles to Tuk-Tuk that we met the manager the day before. Shells being in the red, in the meantime we refueled (2,000 Rp / full).
We welcome with a big smile, we realize that the guesthouse is empty. She said the tourism was at its peak in 1995 but has plummeted since 1995. The reasons are the violent fire of Sumatra in 1997, the bombings in Bali and Jakarta, and the concern of tourists vis-à-vis Muslim extremism. 87% of Indonesians are Muslims. Instead, they are predominantly Catholics and Protestants on Samosir.
Time has covered and therefore we decide to leave the other side of Tuk-Tuk up to Tomok see the sarcophagi. We miss the street once and decide to climb the heights of Tomok to have a beautiful view over the lake. 30 minutes to climb later and we decide to turn back. It seems that the road under really impractical shortly after we're stopped. Looking back over Tomok and finally find the street sarcophagi, right before a coffee when you come to Tuk-Tuk.
The street is filled with souvenir shops. A few steps lead us to the sarcophagi ... it sucks, it starts. It's 5:30, time to return to Tuk-Tuk to make scooters. 150 km in the day, I c
hurt ... We dine at Romulan, a small guesthouse with a description of the Lonely Planet is rather terse: "restaurant popular with German customers." Strangely, no signs on the road, no passage clearly defined. It is actually hidden behind the Morroan. Held by a German married to an Indonesian food is delicious. The marriage of flavors is delicious, audacious ... almost same after a meal like this I feel the soul of a food critic. The seasoning of the avocado salad is to die, and chicken gravy with mushrooms and cashew nuts is topissime. In short, a wonderful dining experience. Rp 78.000 for two starters, two dishes and a dessert ... very good value for money.


Day 8: Saturday, November 3, 2007

Program:
- Boat you Tuk - Prapat
- Prapat route - Medan


wake at 5:30 am, I try photography 'background' screen-flake "sunrise. Too many clouds, it will be for another time. Back to bed at 7am to 2 small hours of sleep. Breakfast arrives .. what to take? The breakfast has so far been very disappointing as such as cheese which happens to be a Toastinettes still packed. We decided to try the omelette .. Thib mushroom, tomato and cheese for me. Ok ... no tomato cheese omelet for a while. just finished lunch and it is approached by three young Indonesian who are in English class and whose mission is to speak with us. 10 minutes later and they sign their paper attesting to the conversation that we had to have .. small photo shoot too .. 20 minutes after breakfast, Thib starting to see a cold sweat. Information taken from the stove, it was a hallucinogenic mushroom omelet. It seems that it normal there at breakfast it seems a little rough though. 8.000 to Rp it is cheap anyway ...
It is time to pay the bill for three days at Lake Toba. Thib rises, he staggers between tables .. ok I'll pay later, first I must help him find his bed. The boat leaves in 1:45, the effects are expected to last 1 hour. Thib lying, I organize the trip back to Medan. Local buses provide a link Prapat-Medan Rp 18.000 and 6 hours away. For 80,000 Rp and 4 hours drive we are promised a private car .. ok for the second option. Always
grog, but eager to do some shopping before the ship, Thibaud rises after one hour. It stops a few meters from the guesthouse in a souvenir shop. A circular box and two statues Batak (180,000 Rp) and later we leave the store. It is addressed by the rest of the class to which the three previous Indonesian owned. Having a boat to take, we offer them to dock with us, the starting point of the boat is about fifty meters to the left of the guesthouse. The exercise is different, 3-4 students I speak English and 30 are begging me to sign their sheets. My kindness takes over my dedication English teacher and I start to sign papers with a vengeance, alternating and make good conversational skills a lot of effort to speak with dexterity. The boat arrives, I have no time to comment, a signature will suffice. Part of the group up with us in the boat, they must pass two other tourists to find and feel they have more chance to Prapat.
arrived at the port of Prapat, we find Robyn the guesthouse, a scout party to arrange a private car. The car will prove to be less private than expected, three Indonesians and Dutch join us inside. 4h-4h30 of road later and here we are in Medan. Our choice is the Angel Hotel. Rp 30.000 chamber consists of a bed, a small bathroom and a square meter of living space. Located next to the mosque, we expect a revival shortly after 5am, what bothers us just because the flight is at 8:45.
Short walk to see the Mosque and the Sultan's Palace, the only two activities in Medan. The city is not great and the atmosphere is heavy. We take tea in the street with an Indonesian who said his cousin Prince Harry, and it is high time for him and for us going to bed. It's really hot, the fan will not be too many.



Day 9: Sunday, November 4, 2007

Program:
- Back to Singapore

clock ... 4:30. Mosque woke up earlier than expected. The call to prayer echoed through all loudspeakers of the mosque. 30 minutes at full volume were followed by 30 minutes at a volume slightly smaller. It is 5:30, you must officially wake up in 45 minutes, unable to sleep again.
6:15 I wake Thibaud, 6:30 am we are in a becak (motor tricycle) which takes us to the airport (20,000 Rp). A small counter on the left for the airport tax (Rp 75.000 on the day we pay Rp 150.000 per person now) and here we are duty-free zone ... not that great as expected. Most shops open at 9am and more. A nap in the waiting room and we take our flight back to Singapore.

Then it will be 2 ½ days of work before returning to Indonesia to climb Mount Rinjani in Lombok island.


Informations complémentaires:


Logement
- Sibayak Wisma Leuser, Bukit Lawang PO. Box. Postal 20 774 Bohorok
Contact: Asni Nasution HP: 081 361 010 736
- Sibayak Guesthouse Inn, 119 Veterans Road, Berastagi.
Contact: Anita Kaban HP: 08126508262


Budget Budget pour 9 jours pour 2 personnes:
- Transport = 1,100,000 USD
- Logement = 365.000 USD
- Nourriture et boissons = 1,650,000 USD
- visit, / donation / guide = 1,350,000 USD
- Autres (Internet, shopping, ..) = Rp 300.000
For a total of Rp 4,765,000 (about EUR 360) for two people for 9 days.


major payments
- Medan airport taxi Pinang Baris bus station, = 50,000 Rp
- Bus Medan - Bukit Lawang = 10,000 Rp / person
- Guesthouse Rp = 30,000 / bedroom
- Bukit Guide Lawang = 25 euro / person / day
- Taxi Bukit Lawang, Berastagi = 260,000 Rp
- Taxi Berastagi - Prapat = Rp 370.000
- Entry Prapat = 2,000 Rp / person
- Boat Prapat-Tuk Tuk Rp = 7.000 / person
- moped rental Tuk Tuk = 70,000 Rp (gasoline included)
- International Airport Tax = 150,000 Rp


albun Link to photo -> Click here