Island 80 km ² for 2 million people, Lombok offers a wide variety of landscapes: mountains, beaches, rice paddies, fields of tobacco .. I did however
past four days. The purpose of this trip is the ascent Mount Rinjani, the second highest peak in Indonesia. Peaking at 3726m, Mount Rinjani is the highest peak of Lombok. This volcano is extinct and its caldera is covered by a lake, Danau Segara, which means son of the sea in Bhasa Indonesia, and a new volcano, Gunung Bahru, whose red traces its last eruption in 2004 are still visible.
After three days of intense trekking, the last day we took in Senggigi, the main area of Lombok Resorts.
I begin by saying that the ascent of Rinjani is THE ideal health course:
- Day 1: clean up -> footwork
and glutes - Day 2: alternating ascents and descents -> program complete muscular
- Day 3: pure descent -> Working
knees But that's not all, because it is:
- exercise of agility jumps from rock to rock and pass above the empty tree roots.
- Fighting the fear of heights by walking at 3am on a crest of a meter wide with winds.
- Work on the mind with a final climb that never ends, so it's been 2 hours to walk in the ashes and you draw back more than you moving forward.
short .. The climb is
follows:
- from Sembalun (1000m)
- climb to base camp (2700m)
- climb to the crater (3726m)
- down to the lake (1965m)
- climb up Palawangan 1 (2641m)
- down to Senaru (600m)
past four days. The purpose of this trip is the ascent Mount Rinjani, the second highest peak in Indonesia. Peaking at 3726m, Mount Rinjani is the highest peak of Lombok. This volcano is extinct and its caldera is covered by a lake, Danau Segara, which means son of the sea in Bhasa Indonesia, and a new volcano, Gunung Bahru, whose red traces its last eruption in 2004 are still visible.
After three days of intense trekking, the last day we took in Senggigi, the main area of Lombok Resorts.
I begin by saying that the ascent of Rinjani is THE ideal health course:
- Day 1: clean up -> footwork
and glutes - Day 2: alternating ascents and descents -> program complete muscular
- Day 3: pure descent -> Working
knees But that's not all, because it is:
- exercise of agility jumps from rock to rock and pass above the empty tree roots.
- Fighting the fear of heights by walking at 3am on a crest of a meter wide with winds.
- Work on the mind with a final climb that never ends, so it's been 2 hours to walk in the ashes and you draw back more than you moving forward.
short .. The climb is
follows:
- from Sembalun (1000m)
- climb to base camp (2700m)
- climb to the crater (3726m)
- down to the lake (1965m)
- climb up Palawangan 1 (2641m)
- down to Senaru (600m)
Link to photo album -> here
Day 1 (Wednesday, 7 November 2007)
Program:
- Singapore-Mattaram
- Airport Mattaram - Sembalun Lawang
2 ½ days after returning from Sumatra, I'm about to leave for Lombok. A direct flight from Singapore-Mattaram is provided by Silkair, but the return is either Saturday or Monday, which does not suit us pas.La solution we have chosen is a flight from Singapore-Surbaya Silkair, followed by 3h waiting to fly to Surabaya Surabaya-Mattaram insured by Lion Air.
3:40 p.m. departure from Changi Airport. After a 2 hour flight, we arrive at an airport that I know for me being arrested twice already, once for the travel-Surbaya Yogyakarta and another time for the ascent Semeru volcano. The international terminal and domestic terminal being adjacent, we walk to the domestic terminal you see where our flight. Small television screens announce all flights late, all except ours, as long as it lasts. After a small snack, we check in, pay the 30,000 Rp domestic airport tax per person and we enter the departure lounge. All eyes turn to us, we are the only whites. No autograph as Sumatra this time, too bad I had a taste.
is 21h, the plane was to leave at 20.30 ... information taken from the window .. 1 hour late. Arrives 9:30 p.m. .. the speakers will sound, people sigh ... 2 hours late. Before initially arrived around 1am to Sembalun Lawang, I had bothered to book a guesthouse, and the three days of trekking to Mount Rinjani. Call the guesthouse Pondok Sembalun .. "If we arrive at 3am finally, here is a problem? yes? bah good agreement with Mattaram sleeping. " Sembalun Lawang, starting point of the climb is at 2:30-3hrs drive from Mattaram, Mr Diralam, manager of the guesthouse and manager of the cooperative Sembalun seems little pleased to welcome us in the middle of the night .. can be understood. We therefore suggest Mattaram sleep and take a cab at 5am for Sembalun.
Not knowing if it is easy to grab a taxi at 4.30am, with Greg we list the options:
- take a taxi when we arrive and we will see on site Sembalun at 3am. At worst we sleep outside, but at least we are on site. At worst it is also eaten by the dogs .. but hey it is there.
- sleeping at the airport. There are certainly more likely to grab a taxi at night there.
- Take a guesthouse and Sort this out with the managers they call for a taxi at night.
The weekend begins well .. But being good-both, is taken here with a smile. The flight left
well with the previously announced delay of 2 hours. 1 hour flight and we arrived in Mattaram.
Day 2 (Thursday, 8 November 2007)
Program:
- Mattaram trip - Sembalun
- Sembalun - Base camp of Mount Rinjani.
arrived at half past midnight (Lombok and Java are not on the same time zone), everybody piled around the single mats (almost) running of the airport that seems to be 70 square meters to break everything . 4-5 trolleys pass before we finally have our bags. On leaving the airport, we find the taxi counter which we explain our situation. We have found the only airport staff speaking English, employees tell us they can not afford to sleep in the airport but a taxi can take us in a cheap hotel near the airport and a taxi to pick us up at 4:30. Rp 27.000 paying at the counter, a taxi takes us to the Air Lingga. After we have announced the complete hotel, we finally found an "executive" room with twin beds for 70,000 Rp slats of wood .. who cares it is almost 2am and we must take a taxi in 2:30. The managers, kind, take us one thing every 5 minutes, towels (who cares it will not wash), fan .. ok here it is.
4:30 am, a taxi actually happens in the hotel courtyard. Same driver that led us here .. Sembalun direction. Did he also slept 2 hours last night? we'd rather not know. The roads are deserted, few chances to take a truck, you can rest easy. 2:30 later, the driver wakes up, it is Sembalun but does not know where the Pondok Sembalun. He asks for directions .. Mr Dilaram .. we stumbled upon the manager of the guesthouse. He gets into the car and taken to another guesthouse, the Losmen Sibayak. You pay the driver Rp 350.000 Rp 20.000 + tip for the night we just
A boy of 19 years' time, is our guide ... For Asian experience, we know that a local, even if at 10 years and he wears flip-flops, and although it will still be better as you walk in, it does not matter so the fact that is older than him. We start our search all trekking permits. As agreed we do not ask us to pay Rp 20.000 per person, just put us on the register. Some names on the register for today, will be alone?
After 5 minutes of exposure, and after considering how the porters arrive to climb those hills with their load, we walk another 10-15 minutes before finally arriving at base camp . Flat expanse of gravel, that is the base camp.
Day 3 (Friday, 9 November 2007)
Program:
- base camp -
crater - Crater - Base Camp
- Base Camp -
lake - Lake - 1 Palawangan
The first forty minutes are already difficult. The soil is sandy and
The sun is already up, but little we matter. Sunrise does not seem extraordinary because the place where he does not get up pretty sight. We displayed this time without a cloud, as opposed to the sunrise, the lake and above the volcano Gunung Bahru, offers a breathtaking view .
There are even the shadow of Mount Rinjani , reflecting off the lake and the outline of the caldera
. This is the lake that
captivate the most objective of our cameras, the crater of this extinct volcano not being him not very scenic. Arrived 10 minutes at the summit, we took the cold already forced inactivity. After 20 minutes up there, we therefore decided to restart. This peak which proved so to ure to rise, turns out to be a treat to go down. Surfing on the sand, we descend at high speed while keeping in mind that we are framed by a cliff on the left and right. We make frequent stops for photos, brightness increased gradually revealing more and more the beauty
the volcano Gunung Bahru, all black ash with drawn red and hardened lava which has advanced on the lake in 2004, greatly reducing the volume of water. The day was rather cloudy and having made this journey by night, this is the first time we see this landscape as well.
We will have 1:30 to descend to base camp. Just arrived, and as tradition dictates, the holders have prepared banana pancake. As is the tradition as a
armed with a dozen monkeys stands ready to steal the banana pancake the first tourist unwise. This was the careless tourist tourist Dutch. Sitting halfway into his tent, a dozen yards from apes, he began to search his bag holding your plate in one hand. I start filming so the result was predictable. Launched at full speed, the monkey walked the few yards, tapped the base for all of these forces, grabbed the pancake flight and took to their heels, leaving the tourists completely stunned because that just happened. Having finished my banana pancakes, banana in hand, I approached the small ridge to enjoy the lake view. Approaching a monkey, I threw small pebbles to keep it at bay. Continuing to advance, it was 3 feet away from me when he began to show its teeth. Unwilling to fight with a monkey for a banana, I gave him my property and returned near the camp.
It is now 8am. Greg and I decree that a nap is needed. 2:30
more later, the guide we wake up, it's time to get going to the lake. Apart from our tent, the camp is deserted, others do not nap and left just after the pancake ...
down until 3am lake, not very hard but some passages a little slippery. Arrived at the lake, the sky is clear and beautiful view. We find other groups who preferred to nap by the lake and test the hot springs nearby, 10 minutes below. It is time for us to work the guide: it indeed wants to spend the night Palawangan 1 or lake view, Mount Rinjani and the volcano Gunung Bahru is magnificent. The problem is that water and wood are not readily available and so the guide would prefer to camp a little further on, POS 3. POS 3 is located in the forest and there is no view ... To force the decision, it promises to take care of ourselves and water timber .. to this determination, accepts.
is 15h when we finish lunch of pasta and vegetables. The Dutch couple decides to spend the night at the lake and walk 6am the following day. As promised, we instruct our
bags two bottles of spring water collected near the lake by the carriers. We will start again for 2 hours and a half walk. The trail runs along the lake to the point that we need to escalate the rocks twice and walk on a small ledge with the lake below. The rest is in the woods. The climb is tough and rather epic, whether the two bamboo bridges without railings right climbing on the roots of a tree over a crevasse. Arrived at Palawangan 1, we find
two Australians. And we will not shit myself. Just arrived, we climb the small hill overlooking the camp. The view of the lake is really beautiful. Like all afternoon, the sky is slightly cloudy. The weather is generally found early morning. Shipment has considerably decreased in two days, the porters arrive shortly after us. The cold comes back and retool it into
accordingly. The holders go in search of wood. The sun sets and it's getting really cold. We recover neck in the tent until dinner is served. The hot tea was not long before we get served. We do go out to eat that rice with vegetables, fried shrimp and chicken.
It is now 8am. Greg and I decree that a nap is needed. 2:30
down until 3am lake, not very hard but some passages a little slippery. Arrived at the lake, the sky is clear and beautiful view. We find other groups who preferred to nap by the lake and test the hot springs nearby, 10 minutes below. It is time for us to work the guide: it indeed wants to spend the night Palawangan 1 or lake view, Mount Rinjani and the volcano Gunung Bahru is magnificent. The problem is that water and wood are not readily available and so the guide would prefer to camp a little further on, POS 3. POS 3 is located in the forest and there is no view ... To force the decision, it promises to take care of ourselves and water timber .. to this determination, accepts.
is 15h when we finish lunch of pasta and vegetables. The Dutch couple decides to spend the night at the lake and walk 6am the following day. As promised, we instruct our
Day 4 (Saturday, 10 November 2007)
Program:
- Palawangan 1 - Senaru
- Senaru - Senggigi
The premises have crestfallen. The wind was blowing so hard that night that their tent and two poor bamboo sticks are not required to windward. They therefore have little sleep. As agreed, we see the sunrise before we deliver way to Senaru. The brightness is low, it is hard to take pictures not blurry.
A banana pancake for breakfast and we leave at 6:30. After 5 minutes of ascent is 3h
descent ahead. Keeping the Gili Islands in focus, we go down a dirt trail in the middle of the plain during the third term. The remaining two-thirds of the trail are in the forest. After the POS 3, it remains about 2 hours walk to Senaru. Trotting
mostly running sometimes, the difficulties of the day are far behind. Arrived at the POS 3, there sees some monkeys Ebony .
Since it does not rain, we confront the horde of leeches that typically occur, and only between 1 and POS Senaru. You cross a French couple who begins a two-day treking. Senaru parties, they join the lake and return to Senaru. We arrive at the Rinjani Trek Centre point of the trek. The car is already waiting, Mr
Diralam who followed our progress through the guide. Porters arrive 15 minutes later, a souvenir photo last and we start off with the driver, a young 24 year old Indonesian, and his girlfriend.
Sleeping in the car, we wake up 2 hours later in Senggigi. Already the first palm trees and white sand of the pages matching the roadside. It'll be good after 2 ½ days of effort. Wishing for a comfortable place, with hot water, without being too luxurious, our choice is the Mascot Cottage. Arriving with our trekking clothes, having taken no shower for three days, we are happy we do not hunt brush stroke. In addition, we are told at the counter that gives us a reduction of 100,000 compared to Rp regular prices, forcing out of season. So here we are renting a room in a bungalow with air conditioning and TV for 250,000 Rp Greg sticks to the first shower. We will then in the restaurant
hotel near the beach . The sellers of tee-shirts, necklaces, masseuses ... a dozen local crowd at the gate to the beach. Many whites are walking on the beach, which changes from Sumatra. Senggigi really attracts many tourists. Unwilling to wait about shrimp fritters and rice, spaghetti lunch at the appropriate sees everything.
Then it was time for swimming. Placing one foot on the sand, I noticed a couple of whites trying to be massaged in the sand .. Fred and Lucia .. The French couple met in Sumatra last week. The world is really small. Ending their 2 weeks vacation, they also took a room in the cottage. Is telling the end of the journey in Sumatra, we are 30 minutes in water before napping in the sun. Interrupted every 10 minutes by vendors, get a massage by Gregory (70,000 Rp) while I am walking downtown. Stopped every 5 meters by vendors of necklaces, I found a bit heavy Senggigi, especially those in Indonesia, usually very cheerful, you shoot the eye when you do not buy them ... is the problem of tourist places in general, and Senggigi no exception to rule al. Do
not finding Asmara restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet, we have dinner at Taman filled only with tourists. Being at the seaside, pasta with salmon seems to be a good choice, especially since it is a specialty of the house. 30 minutes later, when we play pool at the Tropicana cafe (25,000 Rp / hour), I make them myself my specialty cake. Making my dinner on the sidewalk leading to the Mascot Cottage, I let Greg go to bed while I wander the streets. Back in the room, I woke up at one o'clock in the morning with the same punishment as before. Spending half the night on the beach not my decision based on my unique experience, I strongly recommend, however, pasta with salmon this restaurant ... now it is said.
Day 5 (Sunday, 11 November 2007)
Program:
- Senaru - Senggigi
The premises have crestfallen. The wind was blowing so hard that night that their tent and two poor bamboo sticks are not required to windward. They therefore have little sleep. As agreed, we see the sunrise before we deliver way to Senaru. The brightness is low, it is hard to take pictures not blurry.
A banana pancake for breakfast and we leave at 6:30. After 5 minutes of ascent is 3h
mostly running sometimes, the difficulties of the day are far behind. Arrived at the POS 3, there sees some monkeys Ebony .
Since it does not rain, we confront the horde of leeches that typically occur, and only between 1 and POS Senaru. You cross a French couple who begins a two-day treking. Senaru parties, they join the lake and return to Senaru. We arrive at the Rinjani Trek Centre point of the trek. The car is already waiting, Mr
Sleeping in the car, we wake up 2 hours later in Senggigi. Already the first palm trees and white sand of the pages matching the roadside. It'll be good after 2 ½ days of effort. Wishing for a comfortable place, with hot water, without being too luxurious, our choice is the Mascot Cottage. Arriving with our trekking clothes, having taken no shower for three days, we are happy we do not hunt brush stroke. In addition, we are told at the counter that gives us a reduction of 100,000 compared to Rp regular prices, forcing out of season. So here we are renting a room in a bungalow with air conditioning and TV for 250,000 Rp Greg sticks to the first shower. We will then in the restaurant
Then it was time for swimming. Placing one foot on the sand, I noticed a couple of whites trying to be massaged in the sand .. Fred and Lucia .. The French couple met in Sumatra last week. The world is really small. Ending their 2 weeks vacation, they also took a room in the cottage. Is telling the end of the journey in Sumatra, we are 30 minutes in water before napping in the sun. Interrupted every 10 minutes by vendors, get a massage by Gregory (70,000 Rp) while I am walking downtown. Stopped every 5 meters by vendors of necklaces, I found a bit heavy Senggigi, especially those in Indonesia, usually very cheerful, you shoot the eye when you do not buy them ... is the problem of tourist places in general, and Senggigi no exception to rule al. Do
not finding Asmara restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet, we have dinner at Taman filled only with tourists. Being at the seaside, pasta with salmon seems to be a good choice, especially since it is a specialty of the house. 30 minutes later, when we play pool at the Tropicana cafe (25,000 Rp / hour), I make them myself my specialty cake. Making my dinner on the sidewalk leading to the Mascot Cottage, I let Greg go to bed while I wander the streets. Back in the room, I woke up at one o'clock in the morning with the same punishment as before. Spending half the night on the beach not my decision based on my unique experience, I strongly recommend, however, pasta with salmon this restaurant ... now it is said.
Day 5 (Sunday, 11 November 2007)
Program:
- Senguiggi - Airport Mattaram (back to Singapore)
advantage of the breakfast room with: eggs, toast, juice orange and coffee, we take one last sight before us a taxi back to airport Mattaram. Located 20 minutes from the airport, only Rp 27.000 meter. 1h Lion Air for only delay the return ... no problem because we had the margin. Waiting in the airport restaurant where there was free internet. Rp 20.000 of domestic airport tax, followed by Rp 150.000 for the international airport tax now from Surabaya (always from Jakarta Rp 75.000). Back
Singapore with the Christmas holiday in Paris and probably the last exit from Singapore for 2007.
As conclusion:
- November is the start of the rainy season in Indonesia. The weather is generally found between sunrise and 10am. A Palawangan 1, if you're not pressed for time, tried to stay at least until 8am to get a nice view over the lake with enough brightness for beautiful images.
- The climb is really tough. Do not forget warm clothes, a local group has recently died of cold during the ascent.
Budget Estimates for 2 people for 4-5 days:
- transport = Rp 500.000
- guide / gift = Rp 2,700,000
- Housing = 320.000 Rp
- Food and beverages 330.000 = Rp
- Other (billiards, ...) = Rp 25.000
For a total of Rp 3,875,000 (or 290 euros) out airfare. FYI
Silkair theft has cost 307 SGD and the Lion Air flight 140 SGD per person.
Main expenses of living
- Tax Domestic Airport Surabaya Rp = 30,000 / person
- Taxi Mattaram - Sembalun = Rp 350.000
- 3 days Trek Guide = Rp 1,300,000 / person if 2 persons.
- Cottage House Mascots = Rp 250.000 to 350.000
- Dinner Senggigi = 40.000 to 75.000 Rp / Main
- Senggigi Taxi - Airport Mattaram
Rp = 30,000 - Tax = International Airport Rp 75.000 per person
Other info:
- Mr Diralam Tel: 085239561340
advantage of the breakfast room with: eggs, toast, juice orange and coffee, we take one last sight before us a taxi back to airport Mattaram. Located 20 minutes from the airport, only Rp 27.000 meter. 1h Lion Air for only delay the return ... no problem because we had the margin. Waiting in the airport restaurant where there was free internet. Rp 20.000 of domestic airport tax, followed by Rp 150.000 for the international airport tax now from Surabaya (always from Jakarta Rp 75.000). Back
Singapore with the Christmas holiday in Paris and probably the last exit from Singapore for 2007.
As conclusion:
- November is the start of the rainy season in Indonesia. The weather is generally found between sunrise and 10am. A Palawangan 1, if you're not pressed for time, tried to stay at least until 8am to get a nice view over the lake with enough brightness for beautiful images.
- The climb is really tough. Do not forget warm clothes, a local group has recently died of cold during the ascent.
Budget Estimates for 2 people for 4-5 days:
- transport = Rp 500.000
- guide / gift = Rp 2,700,000
- Housing = 320.000 Rp
- Food and beverages 330.000 = Rp
- Other (billiards, ...) = Rp 25.000
For a total of Rp 3,875,000 (or 290 euros) out airfare. FYI
Silkair theft has cost 307 SGD and the Lion Air flight 140 SGD per person.
Main expenses of living
- Tax Domestic Airport Surabaya Rp = 30,000 / person
- Taxi Mattaram - Sembalun = Rp 350.000
- 3 days Trek Guide = Rp 1,300,000 / person if 2 persons.
- Cottage House Mascots = Rp 250.000 to 350.000
- Dinner Senggigi = 40.000 to 75.000 Rp / Main
- Senggigi Taxi - Airport Mattaram
Rp = 30,000 - Tax = International Airport Rp 75.000 per person
Other info:
- Mr Diralam Tel: 085239561340